[PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass

James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Jun 9 10:05:46 EDT 2016


Assuming you mean the penetrator that passes through the hull?  It attaches
to the motor by screwing into the existing threaded hole where the original
fibreglass shaft attached.

On 9 June 2016 at 14:17, via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> How does the rotator attach to the motor?
>
> Thank you,
> Scott Waters
>
> >  -------Original Message-------
> >  From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  Sent: Jun 08 '16 10:14
> >
> >  James,
> >  Yes I always thread in penetrators now, right beside the brush on each
> >  side, super easy!
> >  As for taking the motor apart, the wires are coiled inside to allow
> >  for removing the end cap with the brushes. Its a bitch, and I hate it!
> >  but it is better than try to rotate the wires in the tight turn in the
> >  housing. Of coarse a test assemble to ensure the wire length works
> >  before epoxy is important. There is potential for damaging a wire and
> >  not knowing it is damaged. Maybe my motors have a tighter turn in them
> >  than the 101's. Either way, I like the way I do it now.
> >  Hank
> >  ps; nice picture
> >
> >  On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 8:58 AM, James Frankland via
> >  Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >  Hank. What if you have to take the motors apart for anything? They are
> >  potted now and you get the same problem as I have\had?? I made a
> >  brilliant picture.
> >
> >  The problem for me is getting the cables from the potted shafts onto
> >  the spade terminals while trying to push the brushed back through a
> >  2mm hole.... Probably the same awkward bend as you mentioned.
> >
> >  If I did this again, I would probably have the cables threaded and
> >  going outside and then back into the hull through a standard
> >  penetrator. If I read it right that's what you've done. And I might
> >  even do away with the rotating motors and have 4 of them static.
> >
> >  ​
> >
> >  On 8 June 2016 at 12:39, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
> >  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >  > O ya one more thing, to remove the original shaft, heat it up first,
> >  > there seems to be some sort of lock tight on the threads.
> >  > Hank
> >  >
> >  > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 5:35 AM, hank pronk via
> >  > Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > I have opted for drilling and tapping in penetrators rather then run
> >  > the wires through the shaft opening. If you go with your wires
> >  > through the pivot shaft, I found that a two step process works for
> >  > me. First I put the wires through the motor opening and seal them in
> >  > place. The epoxy does not need to go into the motor, so I just
> >  > silicone the wires at the motor so epoxy does not run into the
> >  > motor. Alan had a great idea to use chewing gum. Then I feed the
> >  > sealed wires through the shaft and then thread the shaft into the
> >  > motor and fill with either epoxy or casting resin. I use a casting
> >  > resin with super high compressive strength. If you install the wires
> >  > with the epoxy into the shaft first, it is a bugger to rotate the
> >  > shaft into the threads because my motors have an akward bend that
> >  > the wires have to make. I have not used 101's though, just 50 lb
> >  > thrust, but I think they are similar.
> >  > Hank
> >  >
> >  > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 4:09 AM, James Frankland via
> >  > Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through
> >  > into the hull.
> >  >
> >  > Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through
> >  > hulls the single most time consuming part of psubbing. Difficult to
> >  > construct and maintain.
> >  >
> >  > http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm
> >  > http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm
> >  >
> >  > Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the
> >  > through hull with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the
> >  > cable. So you have to make the cables fit without touching any part
> >  > of the motor innards. Some sort of modification needed im sure. Plus
> >  > the motors jam in the through hull tubes. Oil compensation is messy
> >  > and a nuisance.
> >  >
> >  > I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but
> >  > not available to us at the moment I don't think.
> >  >
> >  > I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :)
> >  >
> >  > Regards
> >  > James
> >  >
> >  > On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles
> >  > <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >  >
> >  >> How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating
> >  >> shaft to go through the penetrators?
> >  >>
> >  >> Thank you,
> >  >> Scott Waters
> >  >>
> >  >>> -------Original Message-------
> >  >>> From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> >  >> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  >>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> >  >> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  >>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  >>> Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10
> >  >>>
> >  >>> I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who
> >  >> have
> >  >>> done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor
> >  >> threw
> >  >>> the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the
> >  >> inside.
> >  >>>
> >  >>> Rick
> >  >>>
> >  >>> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via
> >  >> Personal_Submersibles
> >  >>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >  >>>
> >  >>>> Brian,
> >  >>>> something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the
> >  >> glass
> >  >>>> mat that
> >  >>>> you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets
> >  >> tacky
> >  >>>> before applying it.
> >  >>>> Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last
> >  >> coat gets
> >  >>>> tacky & add some more
> >  >>>> glass cloth.
> >  >>>> You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is
> >  >> twice
> >  >>>> the cost of the polyester.
> >  >>>> Alan
> >  >>>>
> >  >>>> -------------------------
> >  >>>> FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
> >  >>>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  >>>> TO: PSubs <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  >>>> SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM
> >  >>>> SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  >>
> >  >>>>
> >  >>>> Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside
> >  >> down
> >  >>>> fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the
> >  >> adhesion
> >  >>>> that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I
> >  >> didn't
> >  >>>> get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something
> >  >> else next
> >  >>>> time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside,
> >  >> soak the
> >  >>>> fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with
> >  >> a
> >  >>>> plastic mold release barrier.
> >  >>>>
> >  >>>> Brian
> >  >>>> _______________________________________________
> >  >>>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> >  >>>> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  >>>>
> >  >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >  >>>>
> >  >>>> _______________________________________________
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> >  >>>> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  >>>>
> >  >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >  >>>
> >  >>>
> >  >> _______________________________________________
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> >  >> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >  >
> >  > _______________________________________________
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> >  >
> >  > _______________________________________________
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> >  >
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> >
> >  _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
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