[PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Jun 9 09:17:28 EDT 2016
How does the rotator attach to the motor?
Thank you,
Scott Waters
> -------Original Message-------
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> Sent: Jun 08 '16 10:14
>
> James,
> Yes I always thread in penetrators now, right beside the brush on each
> side, super easy!
> As for taking the motor apart, the wires are coiled inside to allow
> for removing the end cap with the brushes. Its a bitch, and I hate it!
> but it is better than try to rotate the wires in the tight turn in the
> housing. Of coarse a test assemble to ensure the wire length works
> before epoxy is important. There is potential for damaging a wire and
> not knowing it is damaged. Maybe my motors have a tighter turn in them
> than the 101's. Either way, I like the way I do it now.
> Hank
> ps; nice picture
>
> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 8:58 AM, James Frankland via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hank. What if you have to take the motors apart for anything? They are
> potted now and you get the same problem as I have\had?? I made a
> brilliant picture.
>
> The problem for me is getting the cables from the potted shafts onto
> the spade terminals while trying to push the brushed back through a
> 2mm hole.... Probably the same awkward bend as you mentioned.
>
> If I did this again, I would probably have the cables threaded and
> going outside and then back into the hull through a standard
> penetrator. If I read it right that's what you've done. And I might
> even do away with the rotating motors and have 4 of them static.
>
>
>
> On 8 June 2016 at 12:39, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> > O ya one more thing, to remove the original shaft, heat it up first,
> > there seems to be some sort of lock tight on the threads.
> > Hank
> >
> > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 5:35 AM, hank pronk via
> > Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > I have opted for drilling and tapping in penetrators rather then run
> > the wires through the shaft opening. If you go with your wires
> > through the pivot shaft, I found that a two step process works for
> > me. First I put the wires through the motor opening and seal them in
> > place. The epoxy does not need to go into the motor, so I just
> > silicone the wires at the motor so epoxy does not run into the
> > motor. Alan had a great idea to use chewing gum. Then I feed the
> > sealed wires through the shaft and then thread the shaft into the
> > motor and fill with either epoxy or casting resin. I use a casting
> > resin with super high compressive strength. If you install the wires
> > with the epoxy into the shaft first, it is a bugger to rotate the
> > shaft into the threads because my motors have an akward bend that
> > the wires have to make. I have not used 101's though, just 50 lb
> > thrust, but I think they are similar.
> > Hank
> >
> > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 4:09 AM, James Frankland via
> > Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> > I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through
> > into the hull.
> >
> > Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through
> > hulls the single most time consuming part of psubbing. Difficult to
> > construct and maintain.
> >
> > http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm
> > http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm
> >
> > Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the
> > through hull with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the
> > cable. So you have to make the cables fit without touching any part
> > of the motor innards. Some sort of modification needed im sure. Plus
> > the motors jam in the through hull tubes. Oil compensation is messy
> > and a nuisance.
> >
> > I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but
> > not available to us at the moment I don't think.
> >
> > I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :)
> >
> > Regards
> > James
> >
> > On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles
> > <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >> How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating
> >> shaft to go through the penetrators?
> >>
> >> Thank you,
> >> Scott Waters
> >>
> >>> -------Original Message-------
> >>> From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> >> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> >> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >>> Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10
> >>>
> >>> I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who
> >> have
> >>> done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor
> >> threw
> >>> the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the
> >> inside.
> >>>
> >>> Rick
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via
> >> Personal_Submersibles
> >>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Brian,
> >>>> something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the
> >> glass
> >>>> mat that
> >>>> you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets
> >> tacky
> >>>> before applying it.
> >>>> Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last
> >> coat gets
> >>>> tacky & add some more
> >>>> glass cloth.
> >>>> You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is
> >> twice
> >>>> the cost of the polyester.
> >>>> Alan
> >>>>
> >>>> -------------------------
> >>>> FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
> >>>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >>>> TO: PSubs <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >>>> SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM
> >>>> SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >>
> >>>>
> >>>> Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside
> >> down
> >>>> fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the
> >> adhesion
> >>>> that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I
> >> didn't
> >>>> get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something
> >> else next
> >>>> time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside,
> >> soak the
> >>>> fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with
> >> a
> >>>> plastic mold release barrier.
> >>>>
> >>>> Brian
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> >>>> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >>>>
> >> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list
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> >>>>
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> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >
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