[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Jul 25 21:29:58 EDT 2015
Hank, I am with you on this. I think the dimmer overly complicates the
lite. In the spirit of KISS and to keep the cost down, I am thing we need
to roll back to the no dimmer position.
Cliff
On Saturday, July 25, 2015, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> I find that I either need light or not. I used to think dimming would be
> good, but now I would say it is a waste of time.
> Hank
> --------------------------------------------
> On Sat, 7/25/15, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>> wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
> To: "'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'" <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> Received: Saturday, July 25, 2015, 5:53 PM
>
> #yiv7943653100
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> #yiv7943653100 These are standard reflectors made
> for the 29 LED array, they are not expensive but have not
> actually found the cost yet. They are made out of plastic but
> metal ones are also available. Have you a suggestion? Now’s the
> time to make changes. The beam angle of the array is 120
> degrees to 50% falloff which will be modified by passing
> through the proposed flat port. Don’t know by how much,
> haven’t looked at that problem. Take a look at the spec on the web
> forum. New release today from Cliff and I. Dimming seems to be the
> present
> issue, to dim or not to dim. Appreciate your
> comments, Ken From: Personal_Submersibles
> [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org <javascript:;>] On
> Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 5:58 PM
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Ken, in your latest
> document you are stating....There are a number of reflectors
> made for this 29 LED Array with beam angles of 18, 28 and 40
> degreesLooking on my
> favourite underwater light site, I found the following beam
> angles...
>
> 3 with 85 degree
> flood, 1 with 85 & 32 spot option, 2 with 77 or 30, 2
> with 75 or 38 & 1 with 65 flood.It seems up round
> 80 degrees is the most popular.I like the idea of
> being able to interchange reflectors to have either a wide
> or narrow beam.To get the 80
> degree flood we would need to create a housing so that the
> emitter was near enough to the lense to be able to
> get that wide angle. With a reflector that was more narrow
> we could then reduce the angleto
> suit.There are miriads
> of reflectors on the Deal Extreme site (search on
> reflector). These are usually for flash lights& bike lights
> so not sure if we would get an 80 degree angle.Here is a bridgelux
> 80 degree reflector but about 3" diameter.
> http://darkoo.en.alibaba.com/product/60081774368-221072235/Bridgelux_COB_led_reflector_DK7560_REF_K_B_75mm_80_degree_white_reflector_high_efficiency_new_product.htmlI
> can do an
> extensive Google on this, but any thoughts on this direction
> first?AlanFrom: Alan James via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
>
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 9:17
> AM
> Subject:
> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights Cliff,the retaining ring
> for the lense could easily be made larger
> &have holes drilled
> for attachment, if people wanted to modify the design for
> there own purposes. Also
> noted on the D.S.P.&L. site that they have multiple
> options for differentbrands of
> connectors. Again just make the thread on our generic
> housing for whateverconnector or blue
> globe cable gland we want.Alan From: Cliff Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
>
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 2:17
> AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Alan, my thinking
> is that with the flange, you could mount the light either
> way. On the new boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP
> recess so that outside of the flange is flush with the
> outside of the FRP shell. Would still need to cut a hole
> were the body passes through the FRP shell. Yes this does
> reduce the convection heat transfer from the light but I was
> thinking of leaving say a 3/8 clearance around the recessed
> flange. I don't see any problem with either approach
> to sealing on a MPB by using a neoprene flat
> gadget.
> Cliff On Fri, Jul 24,
> 2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
> Cliff,I was thinking of
> fitting the light in to a bowl
> shapedrecess in the
> fairing / ballast tank, whereas you were
> proposingcutting a hole out
> & fitting it in. In hindsight your idea is
> betterbecause my idea
> would inhibit the heat dispersion due to the
> fiberglasssurrounding the
> light fitting.Alan
> From: Cliff Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
>
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43
> AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights
> Alan, I am visual
> kind of guy. Can send me sketch of what you are describing
> and we can talk.
> Cliff
> On Fri, Jul 24,
> 2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote: Looks a good solid
> light Cliff.On looking at the
> perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking
> weneed a back entry
> for the purposes of mounting in to a
> housingin the fairing as
> you have requested in your list.I am looking at
> mounting in to ballast tanks so will create the
> shape of the light in the
> molding to receive it. If there was a
> threadedextension on the
> back of the light it could slot through a hole & be
> securedwith a nut. This
> would make it easier to seal off the ballast tanks
> inmy
> situation.Alan
> From: Cliff Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
>
> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55
> AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights
> Ken, if you go to
> Youtube and do a search on https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk,
> or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED light, you will see a
> short video of the light.
> Cliff
> On Thu, Jul 23,
> 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote: Cliff, How do I look at
> them?? Ken From:
> Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
> <javascript:;>]
> On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles
> Sent: Thursday,
> July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
> To: Personal
> Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> <javascript:;>>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Now that Jon has
> the forum site set up for the LED light project, my
> suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site
> called out in Jon's email. BTW, I have uploaded to the
> site the wiring diagram and housing drawings for the 5000
> Lumen light that was designed by the ME students I was
> mentoring last year. Cliff On Thu, Jul 23,
> 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote:Doing the dimming
> electrically is easy but the problem is the extra wiring and
> where do you mount the Potentiometer? We can include the
> wires in the cable for use as an option this also
> complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would
> require 4 wires. Personally I also
> like the dimming since it will extend the time you can use
> it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff
> would like to delete. You guys be sure to
> keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily updates for
> a while. Ken From:
> Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
> <javascript:;>]
> On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Cliff,
> Ken,I like the dimming
> option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light
> insome low visibility
> conditions where there is a lot of back
> scatter.The 5,000 lumen
> option may act like a fog
> light.Also I am thinking
> of having lights mounted to the side which may
> notneed to be as
> intense.Depth rating....
> looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light
> housings,it seems simple to
> achieve a reasonable depth without much more
> cost.Potting the
> board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case
> some of thecomponents needed
> to get rid of a bit of
> heat.Mechanical
> housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of
> the recessed light.Alan From: Clifford Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
>
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06
> AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Ken, good first
> pass at the specs. Below are comments. BTW, I will post
> these here as I have not been able to get the activation
> code back yet on registering at the
> forum. Item 2.1 DC
> Voltage. If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery
> bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC. When I switch to MK 101
> thrusters, I dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC
> my instrumentation bus is 24VDC. Would need a
> single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle different
> nominal voltages. Item 4.0 Depth
> Requirement. In the spirit of keeping cost down, I think
> 500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough. I know
> Scott is designing a deep diving boat but is any one else
> shooting for more than
> 500m? 6.0 Dimming. I
> would omit the ability to dim the light. Yes I know it is
> easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go
> with more pins on the subsea connector. I am thinking on
> installing multiple lighs so I could just control on/off
> for each light. I could go either way on this but in the
> spirit of KISS, I vote to omit
> dimming. 8.3 Ports I would
> change plastic to acrylic. I don't think we will end
> up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs
> to size the acrylic lens. 9.0 Printed Wiring
> Boards. I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor
> controller PWBs are potted. Rather than using the spray on
> hydrophobic coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept
> for access to fuse). Therefore suggest changing the word
> coated to potted. 11.0 Mechanical
> Housing. I suggest. The LED panel light and PCB shall
> be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted
> cylindrical housing with a low profile that can be recessed
> in a FRP shell with attachment screws from the rear of the
> flange. The housing should contain a single 29 LED Array
> rated at 10,000 lumens with a rated power of 91-140
> lumens/W (109-71W). Mounting holes will be provided for
> an optional SS yoke style support bracket.
> Material: Hard
> anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6 TBD (I have a grey beard
> machinist friend that owns a machine shop. He loves
> 7071-T6 as it is a dream to machine and stronger than
> 6061-T6. On Thu, Jul 23,
> 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote: Cost is critical.
> The electronics should be a small part of the cost. The
> housing might be the most expensive. Hope you guys are
> reading the specification. Ken From:
> Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
> <javascript:;>]
> On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via
> Personal_Submersibles
> Sent: Thursday,
> July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
> To: Personal
> Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> <javascript:;>>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
> Lights Jon, thanks for
> setting up the forum. I am assuming we can post files as
> well. I agree low cost
> is important but having a functioning light is as well.
> OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an
> option unless they can be potted. To me the best way to
> keep the cost low, is to publish construction drawings of a
> 1-atm DIY housing that a psubber could machine or have
> machined by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that
> could be easily fabricated using one of the PCB online
> sites like ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com and
> DIY populate the board. As a group, we design and build a
> prototype that I can test in my shop. If it works as
> designed, then we post to the psubs site a report, that
> includes the design drawings, circuit diagram, parts list
> and test
> results. Getting a
> consciences on the design spec is the first
> step. Cliff On Wed, Jul 22,
> 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org <javascript:;>>
> wrote:
> My
> three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.
>
> One measure of a success for
> this project will be how many people actually build/use
> it. If it costs more to manufacture than just purchasing
> something like
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
> off the shelf then it's real world application by
> psubbers may be limited.
>
> Over-spec'ing the design above requirements
> for typical recreational operations (ie 10,000 psi
> capability) is likely going to drive up the cost. Also,
> let's remember that "cheap", "low
> cost", and "good price" are relative terms
> for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic
> estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling
> is required.
>
> Jon
>
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