[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Jul 25 20:30:45 EDT 2015
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Alan
From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
I find that I either need light or not. I used to think dimming would be good, but now I would say it is a waste of time.
Hank
--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 7/25/15, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
To: "'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Received: Saturday, July 25, 2015, 5:53 PM
#yiv7943653100
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#yiv7943653100 These are standard reflectors made
for the 29 LED array, they are not expensive but have not
actually found the cost yet. They are made out of plastic but
metal ones are also available. Have you a suggestion? Now’s the
time to make changes. The beam angle of the array is 120
degrees to 50% falloff which will be modified by passing
through the proposed flat port. Don’t know by how much,
haven’t looked at that problem. Take a look at the spec on the web
forum. New release today from Cliff and I. Dimming seems to be the present
issue, to dim or not to dim. Appreciate your
comments, Ken From: Personal_Submersibles
[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On
Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 5:58 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Ken, in your latest
document you are stating....There are a number of reflectors
made for this 29 LED Array with beam angles of 18, 28 and 40
degreesLooking on my
favourite underwater light site, I found the following beam
angles...
3 with 85 degree
flood, 1 with 85 & 32 spot option, 2 with 77 or 30, 2
with 75 or 38 & 1 with 65 flood.It seems up round
80 degrees is the most popular.I like the idea of
being able to interchange reflectors to have either a wide
or narrow beam.To get the 80
degree flood we would need to create a housing so that the
emitter was near enough to the lense to be able to
get that wide angle. With a reflector that was more narrow
we could then reduce the angleto
suit.There are miriads
of reflectors on the Deal Extreme site (search on
reflector). These are usually for flash lights& bike lights
so not sure if we would get an 80 degree angle.Here is a bridgelux
80 degree reflector but about 3" diameter.http://darkoo.en.alibaba.com/product/60081774368-221072235/Bridgelux_COB_led_reflector_DK7560_REF_K_B_75mm_80_degree_white_reflector_high_efficiency_new_product.htmlI can do an
extensive Google on this, but any thoughts on this direction
first?AlanFrom: Alan James via
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 9:17
AM
Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights Cliff,the retaining ring
for the lense could easily be made larger
&have holes drilled
for attachment, if people wanted to modify the design for
there own purposes. Also
noted on the D.S.P.&L. site that they have multiple
options for differentbrands of
connectors. Again just make the thread on our generic
housing for whateverconnector or blue
globe cable gland we want.Alan From: Cliff Redus via
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 2:17
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Alan, my thinking
is that with the flange, you could mount the light either
way. On the new boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP
recess so that outside of the flange is flush with the
outside of the FRP shell. Would still need to cut a hole
were the body passes through the FRP shell. Yes this does
reduce the convection heat transfer from the light but I was
thinking of leaving say a 3/8 clearance around the recessed
flange. I don't see any problem with either approach
to sealing on a MPB by using a neoprene flat
gadget.
Cliff On Fri, Jul 24,
2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote:
Cliff,I was thinking of
fitting the light in to a bowl
shapedrecess in the
fairing / ballast tank, whereas you were
proposingcutting a hole out
& fitting it in. In hindsight your idea is
betterbecause my idea
would inhibit the heat dispersion due to the
fiberglasssurrounding the
light fitting.Alan
From: Cliff Redus via
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights
Alan, I am visual
kind of guy. Can send me sketch of what you are describing
and we can talk.
Cliff
On Fri, Jul 24,
2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote: Looks a good solid
light Cliff.On looking at the
perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking
weneed a back entry
for the purposes of mounting in to a
housingin the fairing as
you have requested in your list.I am looking at
mounting in to ballast tanks so will create the
shape of the light in the
molding to receive it. If there was a
threadedextension on the
back of the light it could slot through a hole & be
securedwith a nut. This
would make it easier to seal off the ballast tanks
inmy
situation.Alan
From: Cliff Redus via
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights
Ken, if you go to
Youtube and do a search on https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk,
or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED light, you will see a
short video of the light.
Cliff
On Thu, Jul 23,
2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote: Cliff, How do I look at
them?? Ken From:
Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via
Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday,
July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
To: Personal
Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Now that Jon has
the forum site set up for the LED light project, my
suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site
called out in Jon's email. BTW, I have uploaded to the
site the wiring diagram and housing drawings for the 5000
Lumen light that was designed by the ME students I was
mentoring last year. Cliff On Thu, Jul 23,
2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote:Doing the dimming
electrically is easy but the problem is the extra wiring and
where do you mount the Potentiometer? We can include the
wires in the cable for use as an option this also
complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would
require 4 wires. Personally I also
like the dimming since it will extend the time you can use
it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff
would like to delete. You guys be sure to
keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily updates for
a while. Ken From:
Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Cliff,
Ken,I like the dimming
option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light
insome low visibility
conditions where there is a lot of back
scatter.The 5,000 lumen
option may act like a fog
light.Also I am thinking
of having lights mounted to the side which may
notneed to be as
intense.Depth rating....
looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light
housings,it seems simple to
achieve a reasonable depth without much more
cost.Potting the
board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case
some of thecomponents needed
to get rid of a bit of
heat.Mechanical
housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of
the recessed light.Alan From: Clifford Redus via
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Ken, good first
pass at the specs. Below are comments. BTW, I will post
these here as I have not been able to get the activation
code back yet on registering at the
forum. Item 2.1 DC
Voltage. If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery
bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC. When I switch to MK 101
thrusters, I dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC
my instrumentation bus is 24VDC. Would need a
single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle different
nominal voltages. Item 4.0 Depth
Requirement. In the spirit of keeping cost down, I think
500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough. I know
Scott is designing a deep diving boat but is any one else
shooting for more than
500m? 6.0 Dimming. I
would omit the ability to dim the light. Yes I know it is
easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go
with more pins on the subsea connector. I am thinking on
installing multiple lighs so I could just control on/off
for each light. I could go either way on this but in the
spirit of KISS, I vote to omit
dimming. 8.3 Ports I would
change plastic to acrylic. I don't think we will end
up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs
to size the acrylic lens. 9.0 Printed Wiring
Boards. I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor
controller PWBs are potted. Rather than using the spray on
hydrophobic coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept
for access to fuse). Therefore suggest changing the word
coated to potted. 11.0 Mechanical
Housing. I suggest. The LED panel light and PCB shall
be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted
cylindrical housing with a low profile that can be recessed
in a FRP shell with attachment screws from the rear of the
flange. The housing should contain a single 29 LED Array
rated at 10,000 lumens with a rated power of 91-140
lumens/W (109-71W). Mounting holes will be provided for
an optional SS yoke style support bracket.
Material: Hard
anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6 TBD (I have a grey beard
machinist friend that owns a machine shop. He loves
7071-T6 as it is a dream to machine and stronger than
6061-T6. On Thu, Jul 23,
2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote: Cost is critical.
The electronics should be a small part of the cost. The
housing might be the most expensive. Hope you guys are
reading the specification. Ken From:
Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via
Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Thursday,
July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
To: Personal
Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED
Lights Jon, thanks for
setting up the forum. I am assuming we can post files as
well. I agree low cost
is important but having a functioning light is as well.
OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an
option unless they can be potted. To me the best way to
keep the cost low, is to publish construction drawings of a
1-atm DIY housing that a psubber could machine or have
machined by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that
could be easily fabricated using one of the PCB online
sites like ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com and
DIY populate the board. As a group, we design and build a
prototype that I can test in my shop. If it works as
designed, then we post to the psubs site a report, that
includes the design drawings, circuit diagram, parts list
and test
results. Getting a
consciences on the design spec is the first
step. Cliff On Wed, Jul 22,
2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote:
My
three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.
One measure of a success for
this project will be how many people actually build/use
it. If it costs more to manufacture than just purchasing
something like http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
off the shelf then it's real world application by
psubbers may be limited.
Over-spec'ing the design above requirements
for typical recreational operations (ie 10,000 psi
capability) is likely going to drive up the cost. Also,
let's remember that "cheap", "low
cost", and "good price" are relative terms
for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic
estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling
is required.
Jon
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