[PSUBS-MAILIST] Snoopy dive report

[Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles]

I could not open up the housing without probably destroying it, so I have
no idea of the layout of internal components, and therefore where to drill.
Also, you'd have to be really careful about filings ending up inside. The
only way I can see of opening this up is to remove the lens, but it appears
to be bonded. I did try prying the lends off, but was was not successful at
least trying gently enough not to break things. If you do succeed in
drilling a hole, the filling will certainly be easier - but an hour isn't
so bad.




On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> I'm curious if there is room in the housing to drill a larger hole similar
> to what we do on the Minn-Kota motors, to make filling easier.  That hole
> could be plugged easily enough with some kind of fitting.  I'll probably
> purchase one to dissect and see if compensation could go quicker than with
> a syringe.
>
> Jon
>
>   *From:* Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 22, 2014 8:41 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Snoopy dive report
>
>  Not much to say about them really... the lights perfectly well, stood up
> to bangs against the dock, and didn't leak any oil. They are very ruggedly
> built, I highly recommend them. The brand is "Buyers" and the item number
> is 1492128.
>
>
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
>
> Here are instructions for adapting to sub use:
>
> If you look at the back of the light, there is a large circular pattern in
> the light body. The cable goes in just to the right of that circle, but
> just to the left of the circle you will see a smaller circle about 1/4" in
> diameter. Look carefully and you'll find the small circle is filled with
> black silicone that blends into the body of the light. Scoop out that
> sealant, and you'll find the head of a small screw. Careful, the screw is
> small and very tight, so make sure you have a screw driver that fits it
> well, you will need to torque it considerably to unstick. The screw appears
> to have no function, it does not secure or connect anything. However, if
> you remove it, you will have a hole you can use for filling with oil. The
> hole is tiny, so you will need something like a syringe with a dispensing
> needle. I used McMaster part # 75165A672 and filled with mineral oil. It is
> an exercise in patience to chase out all the air, turning the light in all
> directions and squeezing the front lens, but after about an hour I got it
> to where no more bubbles appeared when the lens was topmost. Once filled
> with oil, I put the screw back in and covered it with silicone sealant.
> Apart from filling with oil, all I did was put some epoxy glue around the
> entry point of the cable. I did two lights, one with mineral oil and the
> other with mineral oil plus a small quantity of Marvel Mystery Oil. That
> means one light is crystal clear, the other has a slight red tinge (Marvel
> is red). I was just attempting to enrich the reds a bit, but I'd say I was
> splitting hairs.
>
>
> Two of these seems to me a sufficient amount of light for the bow of the
> sub. It I had a K350 with the side viewports, I would consider two more.
>
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 7:57 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> And the new lights?
>
>
>
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