[PSUBS-MAILIST] Snoopy dive report

via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu May 22 10:59:40 EDT 2014


Alec,
When you were filling the light body with a syringe, was the  air escaping 
around the needle, or did the air have a separate exit  point?
Jim
 
 
In a message dated 5/22/2014 9:49:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:

 
I'm curious if there is  room in the housing to drill a larger hole similar 
to what we do on the  Minn-Kota motors, to make filling easier.  That hole 
could be plugged  easily enough with some kind of fitting.  I'll probably 
purchase one to  dissect and see if compensation could go quicker than with a  
syringe.
 
Jon



 
 

From: Alec Smyth via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General  Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 8:41  AM
Subject: Re:  [PSUBS-MAILIST] Snoopy dive report



 
Not much to say about them really... the lights perfectly well,  stood up 
to bangs against the dock, and didn't leak any oil. They are very  ruggedly 
built, I highly recommend them. The brand is "Buyers" and the item  number is 
1492128.   


http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12
-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd



Here are instructions for adapting to sub use:  


If you look at the back of the light, there is a large circular pattern  in 
the light body. The cable goes in just to the right of that circle, but  
just to the left of the circle you will see a smaller circle about 1/4" in  
diameter. Look carefully and you'll find the small circle is filled with black 
 silicone that blends into the body of the light. Scoop out that sealant, 
and  you'll find the head of a small screw. Careful, the screw is small and 
very  tight, so make sure you have a screw driver that fits it well, you will 
need  to torque it considerably to unstick. The screw appears to have no 
function,  it does not secure or connect anything. However, if you remove it, 
you will  have a hole you can use for filling with oil. The hole is tiny, so 
you will  need something like a syringe with a dispensing needle. I used 
McMaster part #  75165A672 and filled with mineral oil. It is an exercise in 
patience to chase  out all the air, turning the light in all directions and 
squeezing the front  lens, but after about an hour I got it to where no more 
bubbles appeared when  the lens was topmost. Once filled with oil, I put the 
screw back in and  covered it with silicone sealant. Apart from filling 
with oil, all I did was  put some epoxy glue around the entry point of the 
cable. I did two lights, one  with mineral oil and the other with mineral oil 
plus a small quantity of  Marvel Mystery Oil. That means one light is crystal 
clear, the other has a  slight red tinge (Marvel is red). I was just 
attempting to enrich the reds a  bit, but I'd say I was splitting hairs.




Two of these seems to me a sufficient amount of light for the bow of the  
sub. It I had a K350 with the side viewports, I would consider two more.




Best,

Alec 








On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 7:57 AM, Jon  Wallace via Personal_Submersibles 
<_personal_submersibles at psubs.org_ (mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org) >  
wrote:


And the new lights?  
 



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