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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Jon, the fact that you made this work is terrific. I would just add more lights. I am curiouse now if this will work with a light bar. I cant see why not. They use multiple LED's that are low wattage per LED.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Hank</div><div><br></div>
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On Friday, February 21, 2025 at 08:00:48 AM MST, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:
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<div><div id="yiv3243505877"><div><div> Hank,<br clear="none"><br clear="none">A few things I've gleaned in my quest to find the ultimate off-the-shelf submarine light.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">I've noticed that most off-road lights have moved to a tight spot pattern that is wide enough for a vehicle trying to illuminate 100-300 feet down the road but much too small/narrow for the 3-30 feet distance we would shoot for underwater. The Harbor Freight Road Shock Edge for example, at 3-10 feet distance has a concentrated spot diameter of about 10 inches with not much leaking light to the sides so totally useless for underwater use unless you wanted pinpoint light on a single seashell.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">As you described, the reflector can be removed to convert the output into an omnidirectional flood however doing so results in a noticeable illumination loss because almost all these inexpensive off-the-shelf LED lights get their high luminosity rating by concentrating the light via the reflectors. Your use of a light bar is an exception because you're starting off with a 20k-30k lumen output with reflectors and removing them still leaves you with a whopping amount of light. The 4 and 6 inch round units don't have that same capacity unfortunately, especially those running on 12 volts. I did try the TigerLights without the reflectors (before expoying) and the intensity of the light seemed about as bright as a 75 watt house light bulb. A great omni-directional light pattern but just too dim. <br clear="none"><br clear="none">There's potential I think to build a hybrid using an off-the-shelf LED housing and replacing the PCB with a COB LED as described on the web site at http://www.psubs.org/design/lights/ that Cliff and Alec both use on their vessels. Installing the driver inside the vessel rather than inside the housing should make that a pretty easy conversion and result in a whole lot of light output. That will likely be my next side project.<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Jon<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div id="yiv3243505877yqtfd48785" class="yiv3243505877yqt8159543561"><br clear="none">On Thursday, February 20, 2025 at 12:22:20 PM EST, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Jon, this is great news. When I make oil filled lights, I remove the reflector covers, the little cone things. I find the scattered light is better than a beam. <br clear="none">Hank<br clear="none">Sent from my iPhone<br clear="none"><br clear="none"> </div></div><div id="yiv3243505877yqtfd43096" class="yiv3243505877yqt8159543561"> </div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br><a ymailto="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br><a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles" target="_blank">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br></div>
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