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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Sean, </div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I used casting resin, and not very thick, maybe 1\2 inch. It would have been maybe 200 W and it was submerged. A test with a heat gun would be a good idea to start with. You could make the epoxy extemly thin and try it with the thermal epoxy. It only needs to seal out water. Oil cmpensating has proven the components can handle pressure (1200 psi). If Jon can make this work it would be fantastic.</div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Hank</div><div><br></div>
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On Friday, February 7, 2025 at 09:20:56 PM MST, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:
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<div><div id="yiv2287236804"><div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;">What epoxy did you use, and how powerful was the LED?</div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;">I wonder about the possibility of a two part pour, where a relatively thin layer would be poured only between the emitter and the lens using a clear epoxy like this:</div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><span><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="https://mgchemicals.com/products/potting-compounds/epoxy-potting/clear-epoxy-resin/">https://mgchemicals.com/products/potting-compounds/epoxy-potting/clear-epoxy-resin/</a></span><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;">...and then a separate pour could be done between the back side of the emitter / electronics and the housing / heat sink, using a thermally conductive epoxy like this:</div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><span><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="https://mgchemicals.com/products/potting-compounds/epoxy-potting/thermally-conductive-epoxy/">https://mgchemicals.com/products/potting-compounds/epoxy-potting/thermally-conductive-epoxy/</a></span><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div>
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<div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;">Would depend I guess on how much heat the LED package puts out, the temperature of the surrounding water, and the efficacy of the housing heat sink. Was your test immersed?</div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;">Sean</div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:14px;"><br clear="none"></div><div id="yiv2287236804yqt26946" class="yiv2287236804yqt8885279019"><div class="yiv2287236804protonmail_quote">
On Friday, February 7th, 2025 at 13:05, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr">Jon, </div><div dir="ltr">I tested an LED light in epoxy and it bunt up pretty quickly.</div><div dir="ltr">Hank</div><div><br clear="none"></div>
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On Tuesday, February 4, 2025 at 12:39:54 PM MST, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:
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<div><div dir="ltr">Hello folks, looking for some suggestions.<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr">1) Are you braking your spool of rope for the emergency flotation buoy so that it doesn't unravel during normal operations or do you find it unnecessary? If so, can you describe how you are braking your spool?<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr">2) I'm testing a set of off-the-shelf 12v led lights (4 inch round) and was going to oil compensate them but now I'm thinking about just filling the entire void with a clear non-yellowing epoxy. I don't see the units as having any useful or serviceable parts upon failure regardless of compensation method so sealing them permanently with epoxy seems like a viable and perhaps less messy method in the long run. The units would require approximately 1.25 inches (31.75mm) depth of epoxy to fill them and my only concern is what effect the dry epoxy will have on the light emanating from the units. Any thoughts?<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr">Jon<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr">_______________________________________________<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr">Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"><a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br clear="none"></div></div>
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