<div dir="ltr">Hi Sean<div>Yes, thats exactly what I mean. However, thats on my K350. I have learnt to live with the difficulty of dismantling the motors and try to do so as little as possible.</div><div><br>I was just asking if anyone has any experience with different types that dont have this issue, so I can avoid it on my new boat.. There are loads of different ones available on amazon of all sorts of makes and prices.</div><div><br></div><div>I have been looking at the ones with the brushed at the other end. As hank mentions in the next email.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks again</div><div>James</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, 21 Nov 2023 at 17:37, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">James, if I understand correctly, your cable exit is potted and cannot be modified, and so you are having to connect your motor leads to the inside end of the potted electrodes, and then you insert your motor axially while having to accommodate the consequent slack in the motor leads. Do I understand this correctly?<br><br>Short of drilling out the potting and re-terminating, I might address this by attempting to eliminate the flexible leads entirely. Would it be possible to install some sort of bus bar arrangement in the known radial clearance gap, connected to the potted leads, and then with a mechanically sliding connection on the motor side? (Or vise versa if you have fixed electrode positions at the penetrator)?<br><br>If such a fixed arrangement isn't possible, my next thought is to pair the motor leads with a stiffening element that might simulate an energy chain in a larger system, whereby a plastic or wire element is bent into a loop and provides physical support to the current carrying conductors in order to keep them clear of the armature.<br><br>Sean<br>-------- Original Message --------<br>On Nov. 21, 2023, 09:55, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<blockquote><br><div dir="ltr">Hi All<div><br></div><div>Anyone got any suggestions for this?<br><br>I am thinking about what motors to get for my new boat. I designed it up using dimensions from my existing Minn Kota 80's.</div><div><br></div><div>On Jodie B I have 3 of these which totals 240lb thrust. which is more than i need really. I can run on just the rear for surface driving.</div><div><br></div><div>On the new boat i will have 4 motors.</div><div><br></div><div>Im thinking of smaller ones. Something along the lines of 4 x 40-50lb would probably be ok.</div><div><br>The biggest thing I want to try and avoid is the difficulty of the wire location that i have on the Minn Kota 80's. The location is ok if the cable runs up the shaft as intended in the standard motor design as you can pull them tight and clear, but once I potted the replacement shaft, the cables then become very troublesome to keep out of the way of the armature\commutator\brush assembly.</div><div><br></div><div>Some other people have experienced this as we have discussed it before.</div><div><br></div><div>Rubbish drawing attached. You can see the blue part is the potted connections which make the wires onto the brushes really tricky. </div><div><br></div><div><img src="cid:ii_18bf36a1f70cb971f161" alt="image.png" width="542" height="510"><br></div><div><br></div><div>Does anyone know of a motor that would be easier to modify or where the shaft hole is in a more convenient place?</div><div><br></div><div>Any suggestions?<br>Kind Regards<br>James</div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>
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