<div dir="ltr">Hank, yes the SS shafts are filled with epoxy as was my concern of melting the epoxy at the motor end or the shaft plus I would want to take it apart and re use the shaft if something happened to the housing.<div>What's the temp up at your place in Fahrenheit now?</div><div><br></div><div>Rick</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Aug 6, 2021 at 8:41 AM hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div></div>
<div dir="ltr">Rick, if they are filled with epoxy, you'r not taking it apart anyways, uless you melt out the epoxy. </div><div dir="ltr">Don't you have some lift bags? You have a good point with those open MBT's. You could always hang a 200 lb steel shaft under the sub on a 50 foot rope, thus assuring the sub does not reach the bottom. My sub hit something and broke the side panel. I think in the future I will hang a weight under the sub.</div><div dir="ltr">Hank</div><div><br></div>
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On Friday, August 6, 2021, 11:21:09 AM MDT, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:
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<div><div id="gmail-m_-2510465142254406496yiv5195940454"><div><div dir="ltr">Hank, I was thinking of that but wanted to be able to unscrew them if needed and would be concerned with using heat due to the epoxy inside of the SS threaded shaft that carries the two conductors?<div>I Loved your video of the test and manned dive recently. Could you do a video of how you trigger the HP air with a rope from the surface? I would be a little scared of letting my sub free fall to the bottom without a substantial lift line due to it possibly hitting a rock on the bottom causing it to lean over a bit and not be able to fill the MBT's or getting snagged on something? <br clear="none"><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Rick<br clear="none"><div><br clear="none"></div></div></div></div><br clear="none"><div><div id="gmail-m_-2510465142254406496yiv5195940454yqt68813"><div dir="ltr">On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 10:47 PM hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div></div>
<div dir="ltr">Rick, what about Lock Tite ? Personally I use JB weld for things like that. If you have to take it apart some day, then heat does the trick.</div><div dir="ltr">Hank</div><div><br clear="none"></div>
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On Thursday, August 5, 2021, 07:06:04 PM MDT, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:
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<div><div id="gmail-m_-2510465142254406496yiv5195940454gmail-m_-3871771905474933859yiv9001408962"><div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none">Alan <div>yes cable gland</div><div>yes, Blue globe made to accept a .08 to .24 OD wire jacket</div><div>It is two separate conductors stranded wire each separately jacketed for obvious reasons</div><div>I would like to run 3 LED front lights that are 34 volt DC and are rated at 100 watts each</div><div>The mid lights and aft light will be on a separate cable going through a different gland. </div><div>Does that make sense?</div><div>Also do you or anyone out there have any suggestions on a good thread compound to mate the motors to the ss shaft? </div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Rick</div><div><br clear="none"></div></div><br clear="none"><div id="gmail-m_-2510465142254406496yiv5195940454gmail-m_-3871771905474933859yiv9001408962yqt05351"><div><div dir="ltr">On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 2:16 PM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Rick,<br clear="none">
do you mean cable gland?<br clear="none">
Are you using blue globe & what size?<br clear="none">
So it is one positive & negative wire running through the same cable gland<br clear="none">
& feeding all 6 LEDs!<br clear="none">
If so what is the combined amp draw. <br clear="none">
I source a lot of my high powered wire through automotive suppliers, but it is <br clear="none">
normally separate positive & negative & not both in a single jacket.<br clear="none">
Alan<br clear="none">
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> On 6/08/2021, at 8:53 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> I am having an impossible time finding some wire that will fit through my strain relief gland which will take from .08 to .24 in OD 2 conductor wire rated for outdoor use. I want to use it for my 6 outside LED lights. <br clear="none">
> Also wanted to know the best stuff to put on the ss threads that my Minn Kota motor will screw onto? <br clear="none">
> <br clear="none">
> Rick<br clear="none">
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