<div dir="ltr">Hi David.<div><br>There was nothing on it originally. It was a piece of XXH pipe as specified on the K350 plans that I had thread cut with a BSPT pipe threading machine at an engineering shop.</div><div><br></div><div>Anyway, i have ordered a 2" BSPT button die and handle to fit. I think this is quite possibly the single most expensive thing i have ever bought just to do one small job. But there we go, its got to be done.</div><div><br>So, assuming it arrives for this weekend, I will attempt to re cut the threads. I suspect the handles may need re making on the holder in order to clear the curvature of the hull, but we'll see. Failing that, i will weld on a straight coupler.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks</div><div>James</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, 25 May 2021 at 18:57, David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div>James, what was connected to the nipple previously? If you still have it, I would try two things. How many turns would it take to reapply it, first ans then take your street El and screw it into the part as well. I believe that will tell you if the nipple is out of round or if the original fitting was actually only held on by two turns, in which case I would follow the advice and retap the old threads.</div><div><br></div><div><div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div>Best Regards,<br>David Colombo<br><img src="http://static.squarespace.com/static/533310a9e4b0fba62008a464/t/5339c1f2e4b041bac4e25d1b/1396294132055/?format=500w" width="200" height="110"><br>804 College Ave<br>Santa Rosa, CA. 95404<br>(707) 536-1424<br><a href="http://www.SeaQuestor.com" target="_blank">www.SeaQuestor.com</a><br><br></div></div></div></div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 9:25 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Thanks everyone. <br><br>The thread is 2" BSPT on both obviously and I had the external one on the pipe nipple cut at an engineering place with a powered pipe threader.<div>Agreed, ptfe tape will hopefully allow it to turn a little more.</div><div><br>I think with the advice given, im going to try and thread the male threads on the pipe nipple a bit deeper. Ive been having a quick look at pipe threading machines. </div><div><br></div><div>Im going to see if i can hire one to start with. Unlikely here i suspect. Also i will go to the place i originally had it threaded and see if i can borrow something. I know them quite well there.</div><div><br></div><div>Did find some manual ones, </div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PTK992-Threading-8-inch-2-inch/dp/B000R9W1A6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2%22+pipe+threader&qid=1621872818&s=diy&sr=1-3" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-PTK992-Threading-8-inch-2-inch/dp/B000R9W1A6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=2%22+pipe+threader&qid=1621872818&s=diy&sr=1-3</a></div><div><br></div><div>but they look a bit poor quality. There are better, but look at the price...But might just do it for this one job, especially as the threads are cut mostly already. Might need to get some better cutting dies? Anyway, im not even quite sure how they work so will look at some videos later. </div><div><br></div><div>Anyway, i have some options. Keep any ideas coming, it really helps.<br></div><div>Thanks again.</div><div>James</div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, 24 May 2021 at 15:09, Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">First off, can you confirm that both the male and female thread are of the same thread standard (NPT, ISO / BSP, etc.)? These tapered thread forms are not all interchangeable.<br><br>To get deeper engagement on a tapered pipe thread, you can run a tap in the female thread, or run a die over the male thread, or both. (Where the tools are available, it's never a bad idea to dress both sides of a tapered pipe thread connection prior to assembly just to avoid problems with fouled or damaged threads). In this case, I'd be inclined to try to dress the male thread with a die first, because it is likely out of true geometry due to the welding. A die that size won't be a cheap tool though if you don't already own it.<br><br>Consider also the function of a PTFE (or similar) pipe thread sealant. The sealant actually serves three purposes, the first of which is, as expected, to seal the spiral thread gap. The second purpose is to prevent galling between similar alloys (particularly an issue with AISI Type 316 / 316L stainless and equivalents like CF-8M) during make up. The third, and arguably most important purpose is to act as a thread lubricant which facilitates greater engagement and interference of the tapered thread by reducing the rotating friction between the parts, ultimately resulting in a smaller gap to be sealed, and consequently a more successful seal.<br><br>When working with tapered threads, I typically tighten them hand tight plus 1.5 to 3 full turns, but that is specifically with smaller diameter fittings. 2" and larger fittings may have different recommendations for number of turns as someone else already mentioned, and of course often tapered threads are used to make up fittings with a final required orientation, which isn't necessarily ideal for obtaining optimum assembly torque / engagement. Importantly though, "hand tight" applies to a connection which has first been lubricated with pipe thread sealant, and will typically be quite a bit further engaged than when test fit dry.<br><br>Sean<br><br>-------- Original Message --------<br>On May 24, 2021, 02:05, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles < <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<blockquote><br>Hi all.<div>I didn’t get any responses to my valve dilemma. I’ve made another video with the problem right at the start so you don’t have to watch it all. I would really appreciate some advice here, I’m not sure what to do.</div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/qJhVeFrUwWI</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Thanks James</div>
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