<DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif; font-size:10pt;"><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif">Alan, </FONT></FONT><DIV><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"> I don't think they're going to get very hot, plus the fact that they will be in cold water and the gel will act as a heat sink if it would try to liquefy. But I don't even think the led's will get that hot. I will make a holder to keep the strips in place so they stay don't move around. These lights are not really going to be for viewing stuff from the sub, these will mainly be for nighttime navigation probably in the harbor. Also these are RGB led's so many colors are possible. </FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"><BR></FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif">Brian</FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"><BR></FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2" style=""><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"> </FONT></FONT><BR><BR><BR><BR><SPAN style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">--- personal_submersibles@psubs.org wrote:</SPAN><BR><BR><SPAN style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">To: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] led</SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 02:42:52 +0000 (UTC)</SPAN><BR><BR><DIV style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"><DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Hi Brian, </DIV><DIV>I would test them to see how hot they get before putting them in anything, just in case they are too hot to put up against the acrylic. </DIV><DIV>If you try & put 3 strips one above the other up against the acrylic they would create a very wide beam of light vertically, which you may not want & may be a waste. </DIV><DIV>Not familiar with the jel. Will it yellow if its heated? Its bound to get in front of the lenses when it comes under pressure. </DIV><DIV>You could always copy Hank; that way you have someone to blame if it fails :) </DIV><DIV>Alan</DIV><DIV><BR></DIV>
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On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 03:09:25 PM GMT+13, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:
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<DIV><DIV><DIV><DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;"><FONT size="2" style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Alan,</FONT><DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"><FONT size="2"> I'm using some of these :</FONT></DIV><DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"><FONT size="2"><BR></FONT></DIV><DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"><FONT size="2"><A href="https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/waterproof-12v-led-strip">https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/waterproof-12v-led-strip</A></FONT></DIV><DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;"><FONT size="2"><BR></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif">led light strips - 6 ft long. I actually wanted the 60 per meter strips but they were out of them so I got the 30 / meter ones. My plan is to put them into a acrylic tube and I'll probably use 3 strips per tube. I was going to put them right up against the inside of the tube. Then fill the tube with a clear Vaseline . I like the vaseline because it tends not to leak as easily as just oil, and if it does leak it beads up rather than spread out like oil does. And if I put the led's directly against the acrylic I won't lose any brightness from the opaqueness of the vaseline. </FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"><BR></FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif">These led's are constant voltage led's so I don't think I will need a driver, and I believe they have built in resistors that control the amperage. </FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"><BR></FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif">Brian</FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"><BR></FONT></FONT></DIV><DIV><FONT size="2"><FONT face="Arial, sans-serif"> </FONT><BR></FONT><BR><SPAN style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;">--- personal_submersibles@psubs.org wrote:</SPAN><BR><BR><SPAN style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;">From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;">To: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;">Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] led</SPAN><BR><SPAN style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;">Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 00:54:15 +0000 (UTC)</SPAN><BR><BR><DIV><DIV style="font-family:Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Hi Rick, </DIV><DIV>I posted a couple of pictures of them on the psubs Facebook page. Not sure whether you are on there or not. </DIV><DIV>The lights are about 7000lm. Leds are usually around 100lms per Watt. They are rated a bit more but I am under driving them as they get too hot otherwise. </DIV><DIV>They are chip on board leds. A technology called "flip chip". I bought them off the manufacturer in China. </DIV><DIV>Marine anodizing is thicker, 25 microns. You can get more corrosion protection with hard anodizing. It affords extra protection against galvanic corrosion. </DIV><DIV>The buck boost drops or increases the supply voltage to the voltage required for the led. In my case I can connect the driver to anything from 12V to 60V and it increases/reduces it to the 36V required by the led. The driver should also be CC (constant current) as the resistance of the led drops as it heats up & allows a lot more current through. </DIV><DIV>I didn't want oil as its messy, & hard to get all the air out. It can also discolour with heat. It's used successfully by lots of people. One technique with oil filling is to have a hose fitting out the back of the light with a pvc tube attached that the wires run down. The tube is pre-crimped so that it collapses easy under pressure & equalises the light fitting. </DIV><DIV>I am using glass lenses because acrylic holds the heat in. </DIV><DIV>Alan</DIV><DIV><BR></DIV><DIV><BR></DIV>
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On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 10:37:56 AM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:
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<DIV><DIV><DIV><DIV dir="ltr">Hi Alan <DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>Couple of questions</DIV><DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>How many lumens are your lights</DIV><DIV>What is the source of the light? COB?</DIV><DIV>How does marine anodizing differ from just regular anodizing and why do you think that is necessary?</DIV><DIV>Is the Buck Buster/LED driver only needed to be able to dim?</DIV><DIV>Why did you want to avoid oil?</DIV><DIV>Rick</DIV></DIV><BR><DIV><DIV><DIV dir="ltr">On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 10:59 AM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV><BLOCKQUOTE style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;"><DIV><DIV style="font-family:Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><DIV></DIV>
<DIV>Rick, </DIV><DIV>I spent a lot of time on my light project, initially looking for & buying lights & housings on line, that I could adapt. </DIV><DIV>I ended up buying 70W leds & making my own housings. The housings I had marine anodized. I had to get an led driver designed & built in China, as I wanted dimming. The driver is a constant current step up, step down (buck boost) that takes a 12-60V input. </DIV><DIV>I had the lenses made up in China; 20 for about $2- each. The units were tested to 1000psi. Have used them quite a bit in caves! They get hammered in that instance because they don't have the water cooling & can get very hot. </DIV><DIV>Other people have oil filled spot lights used on off road vehicles successfully, but I wanted more of a race car look to my sub & wanted to avoid the oil. </DIV><DIV>If a housing or light came up that was suitable & easy to adapt I would use it. </DIV><DIV>But bare in mind that most online lights would need marine anodizing. </DIV><DIV>Alan </DIV><DIV><BR></DIV><DIV><BR></DIV>
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On Wednesday, December 30, 2020, 08:08:07 AM GMT+13, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>> wrote:
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<DIV><DIV><DIV dir="ltr">I built my own aluminum exterior light housing, 6 each, using a cob led bulb that was 10,000 lumens, DC 34 volt and about 100 watts. My friend found them online and they were about $3.50 each.<DIV> I fried a number of them due to poor heat sink or driving them too much and finally got them dialed in. I asked my friend to buy some more and he said that the source in Japan does not sell them any more. </DIV><DIV> I found something similar here in the U.S after hours of searching that matched pretty closely to what I had but they were about $38 each. Is anyone using something similar as far as lumens goes that has any sources I could try or is that price about the best I can do?</DIV><DIV><BR><DIV>Rick</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR>Personal_Submersibles mailing list<BR><A href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</A><BR><A href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</A><BR></DIV>
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