<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"/><title></title></head><body><p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Pfister Blue Globes on both sides - depents on diameter they have differnet pressure test. <br /></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">My have 90 bar for two minutes in boilling water.. or something like that. </span></p>
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<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">vbr Carsten </span></p>
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<p style="margin: 0px;">Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Skadoc Question</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Datum: 2020-05-11T11:49:17+0200</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Von: "Antoine Delafargue via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles@psubs.org></p>
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<div dir="ltr">hello James,
<div>funny I asked myself the same question the last few days. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>-blue globes are the simplest: rated 15bars I believe. Emile tested them to even higher pressure without sliding. with 2 on each end you have extra comfort.</div>
<div>but that would not be class approved as any damage to the cable sleeve and you will be wet inside the sub.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>-Subconn as a high power line. but you have to check the maximum amperage. </div>
<div>would be expensive. and lead time seemed a bit long last time this group discussed it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>-Epoxy potting in some time of insert. you need nice craft skills I would think</div>
<div> </div>
<div>-Final option: a more elaborate design I used on pilot fish: </div>
<div> *a delrin sleeve goes into the penetration</div>
<div>*inside runs a brass pin with a shoulder profile to prevent intrusion into the hull, the pin is glued in the delrin housing, and the cable is soldered into the pin. A blue globe caps it off so no water gets into the pin area.</div>
<div>*inside the hull you have a delrin ring to isolate the electrical connection from the hull, then a brass screw covering the brass pin end and the retaining delring ring. the internal cable can be covered by that screw too via a crimp. </div>
<div>this could even be more elaborate with orings rather than glue, and a system to make the inside of the hull water tight as well.</div>
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<div>regards</div>
<div>Antoine</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 11:29 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc; padding-left: 1ex;">
<div dir="ltr">Hi All
<div>Continued to work on Skadocs new battery pod this weekend.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I was making good progress until the coolant pump on my lathe broke down. Its all blocked with sludge. Not looking forward to cleaning that out....</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Anyway, I have a question. How do you guys think I should take the power from the pod into the hull? </div>
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<div>I found the K350 battery pod electrical through hulls tiresome to make and fit. So I want to do it different this time.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Options.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>1. Proper sub conn bulkhead connector. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>2. Pipe fitting with a valve and detachable cables. In the event of a leak in the pod, the cables could be pulled clear and the valve closed.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>3. Blue Globe or similar cable glands. Two on the pod, two on the hull. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>Any ideas? There are pro's and cons of each.</div>
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<div><img src="em/bin/service.upload/deliveruploadedfile?id=1747277775" alt="Pod.jpg" width="407" height="542" data-id="1747277775" /></div>
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