<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">Thanks Sean<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jan 13, 2020, at 7:26 PM, Ian Juby via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Hey Sean,<div>I'm new to the group, but you said in your reply "You also want to avoid the use of any fast acting valves in oxygen systems. Use needle valves where possible."</div><div>Why do you suggest avoiding fast acting valves?</div><div>Tanks eh!</div><div>Ian</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jan 13, 2020 at 9:07 PM Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><br>If you don't already own a copy, pick up a copy of the Oxygen Hacker's Companion, by Vance Harlow:<br><br><a href="http://www.airspeedpress.com/newoxyhacker.html" target="_blank">http://www.airspeedpress.com/newoxyhacker.html</a><br><br>That said, plain carbon steel is a less ideal material for O2 use than is brass or stainless. You also want to avoid the use of any fast acting valves in oxygen systems. Use needle valves where possible.<br><br>To clean parts for O2 use, just avoid the use of solvents and use a hydrocarbon free cleaner. My preference is Orange TKO, but there are many others. Simple Green also seems to be popular. Use as directed, and check both your cleaning brushes and the rinse water with a UV light to ensure that it is coming away clean. Just repeat the cleaning / rinse until it does. To dry, small parts and fittings can dry in ambient air, but tubing, hoses, and more complicated parts with dead spaces will have to be blown dry. This must be done with hydrocarbon-free air (I.e. nitrox quality) or e.g. pure nitrogen, to avoid recontaminating the parts. <br><br>You want to replace any soft parts in your oxygen system with oxygen compatible materials where necessary (I.e. Viton O-rings and oxygen compatible valve seats), and then use O2 compatible lubricants exclusively. The gold standard for this is CHRISTO-LUBE MCG 111.<br><br>Finally, if you're assembling any tapered thread connections (NPT), use a PTFE or other thread sealant suitable for oxygen systems.<br><br>Sean<br><br>-------- Original Message --------<br>On Jan. 13, 2020, 15:53, hank pronk < <a href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" target="_blank">hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca</a>> wrote:<br><br>Hi Sean,<br>I am installing the O2 paediatric regulator in E3000 now. I have a tower valve that accepts the regulator, and the valve screws directly into the hull penetrator. The hull penetrator is a steel nipple. How do you recommend I clean the nipple and fittings? I have an O2 braided ss hose to the tank. The hose is actually from my O2 cascading set up. <br>Hank<br>_______________________________________________<br>
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