<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div></div><div>Brian,</div><div>I did a quick Google on shielded cables & I can't see that they are of</div><div>any advantage in our situation. Unless you are running them next to</div><div>another cable. Perhaps more of an advantage inside the hull.</div><div>Maybe with saltwater being a conductive medium there is more chance of</div><div>Electrical interference, but I don't know.</div><div>Anyone got any thoughts on this?</div><div>Alan</div><div><br></div><div><br>On 23/06/2019, at 1:05 AM, Brian Hughes via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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Alec, that's how I ran my prior transducers, but ...<br>
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As I haven't yet cut through the wiring I don't know for sure, but I suspect it's more than the usual two, hence the question. I'm debating attempting the simplest approach: tie a tight knot in the cable and run it through a 90° elbow, the part facing out being
at least 1/2" larger than the thru hull. I have an extra 1/4" NPT I could use. Plug the narrow end with epoxy, and top the large end with 2 part hard rubber. I know Mark does this with his subs, but he dives shallower than I'll be going.<br>
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Hmm ... or maybe a gland tightened around the cable, same deal as above, but embedded the gland base in the 2 part hard rubber. Or maybe a stainless cap tapped for the gland base, and fill with hard rubber from the other end. I used to make canister dive light
heads that way, using turned down D cell mag light heads with LED replacement bulbs. Hmm ...<br>
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I can shorten internally and splice correctly.<br>
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Reflections?<br>
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Brian<br>
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