<div>Sounds like it’s done already? If you are happy with the quality of the welding , then can you notch the flange only where the tray hits?</div><div>Rick </div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div>On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:59 AM James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div>Hi Guys,</div><div><br></div><div>Brian. The flanges are welded to both the tube and endcap.</div><div><br></div><div>Rick. The reason I made them protrude onto the inside is because I wanted plenty of material at the joint, and didn't really know any different. I just made it like a hatch which protrudes on both sides.</div><div><br></div><div>Sounds like the flush method will be ok. It will be full penetration welded of course.<br><br>Thanks</div></div><div><div>James</div><div><br><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On 12 June 2018 at 14:44, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <span><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>What was your reason for having the flange come in less than the ID of your pipe?</div><div><br></div><div>I did mine flush like Hank did and one thing that comes to mind is that it would create an area that might be hard to see and effectively wire brush or grind to deal with future rust down the road? That was something that I thought about for the hull side of the web on my T bar frames. </div><div>Rick </div><div class="m_-4712972105918736587HOEnZb"><div class="m_-4712972105918736587h5"><div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div>On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 6:08 AM hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><div><div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div></div>
<div>James,</div><div>I can't see any real benefit to having the flange ring protrude inside the pod. If the ring is flush with the inside, the load still transfers directly onto the pod wall. You can still have a full penetration weld from one side and grind it clean on the inside. So why not? that would be how I did it, and you really have no choice if you need the height for batteries.</div></div></div></div><div><div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div>Hank</div><div><br></div>
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On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 5:44:49 AM MDT, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:
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<div><div id="m_-4712972105918736587m_4695860244245581949m_6163081352340658333yiv5641794115"><div><div>Hi All</div><div><br></div><div>I am making new battery pods for Skadoc. I am thinking of making the removable ends slightly different to how I did it on the K. On that, I put the flanges on to make like a standard flanged end. However, I made them like you would a hatch, ie with the centre of the flange being welded to the centre of the tube. So there is overlap on both sides of the ID and OD of the tube. Bit difficult to explain. Pic here of the K ones when I was making them.</div><div><br></div><div><div><img width="364" height="280"> K350 pod ends.</div><div><br></div><div>The problem with these is that the overlap onto the inside diameter of the tube makes the hole smaller and you cant slide the trays out.</div><div><br></div><div>With the new one, I have made rolling trays and I want them to slide straight out. </div><div><br>So, I am thinking I can make the flanges flush with the inside diameter of the tube.</div><div><br></div><div>I have not started this part yet, so any advice greatly appreciated.</div><div><br></div><div><div><img width="403" height="535"><br></div><div>Not a very good picture, but new trays with rollers made. </div></div><div><br></div><div>Thanks</div><div>James</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br><a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br><a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles" target="_blank">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br></div>
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