<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Greg,</div><div>Cliff's regulator is not a divers second stage reg. It runs direct from the first stage</div><div>& you can dial in the overpressure you require. The excess pressure above set</div><div>pressure escapes through the handle of the regulator but only in the "relieving" model.</div><div>They go for around $150-</div><div>I contacted the guys from Fugu sub a few years ago. <a href="http://www.fugusub.com/fugusub.html">http://www.fugusub.com/fugusub.html</a></div><div>about compensating, am pretty sure they use Minn Kotas. They preferred air </div><div>compensation. They operate out of Florida, so warm shallow waters.</div><div>Alan<br><br><div>Sent from my iPad</div></div><div><br>On 6/04/2017, at 12:24 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:13px"><div><span>Cliff,</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_23310"><span id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_23309">What is the cost for a air compensated set up?</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_23308"><span>Hank</span></div> <div class="qtdSeparateBR"><br><br></div><div class="yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <div style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> <div dir="ltr"><font size="2" face="Arial"> On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 6:12 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br></font></div> <br><br> <div class="y_msg_container"><div id="yiv6403839237"><div><div style="color:#000;background-color:#fff;font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><div><span>Steve,</span></div><div id="yiv6403839237yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_5088"><span>Yes I need a bushing (bearing) that holds the prop shaft in the water. It would be like a cutlass prop shat bearing on a boat. </span></div><div id="yiv6403839237yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_5088"><span>It would have to be long enough to hold the prop strait and true. Also it would need to act as a thrust bearing.</span></div><div id="yiv6403839237yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491436815666_5088"><span>Hank</span></div> <div class="yiv6403839237qtdSeparateBR"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div class="yiv6403839237yahoo_quoted" style="display:block;"> <div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"> <div class="yiv6403839237yqt8288633622" id="yiv6403839237yqtfd64374"><div dir="ltr"><font size="2" face="Arial"> On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 6:00 PM, Stephen Fordyce via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></font></div> <br clear="none"><br clear="none"> <div class="yiv6403839237y_msg_container"><div id="yiv6403839237"><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Hank,</div><div>By "finding a bushing for the propeller shaft that is lubricated by the water" do you mean the bearings which will sit outside the pressure housing?</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>I started looking into ceramic bearings for just this application, and they were interesting - ie. some of them have no metal parts and little need for lubrication.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Steve</div></div><div class="yiv6403839237gmail_extra"><br clear="none"><div class="yiv6403839237gmail_quote">On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 9:47 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none"><blockquote class="yiv6403839237gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;"><div class="yiv6403839237yqt7143576447" id="yiv6403839237yqt51639"><div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><div><span>Sean,</span></div><div dir="ltr" id="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491435827336_3648"><span>I think one of us should </span>develop a magnetic coupler in kit form. Maybe if there is an interest with potential sales it could become a reality. I have come close to starting and even bought the magnets. My stumbling block is finding a bushing for the propeller shaft that is lubricated by the water.</div><div dir="ltr" id="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1491435827336_3647">Hank</div><div><div class="yiv6403839237h5"> <div class="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062qtdSeparateBR"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div class="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yahoo_quoted" style="display:block;"> <div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"> <div dir="ltr"><font face="Arial" size="2"> On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 5:29 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></font></div> <br clear="none"><br clear="none"> <div class="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062y_msg_container"><div id="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yiv0606435627"><div><div style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;"><div>I've decided to go with the PSF - 20 cSt Silicone Bath Fluid for my motors.</div><div> </div><div><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.clearcoproducts.com/pure-silicone-low-viscosity.html">http://www.clearcoproducts. com/pure-silicone-low- viscosity.html</a></div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Brian<br clear="none"><br clear="none">--- <a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none">From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a>><br clear="none">To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a>><br clear="none">Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Oil Compensator<br clear="none">Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 22:48:50 +0000 (UTC)<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div class="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yiv0606435627yqt4787940524" id="yiv6403839237m_-7951756620273203062yiv0606435627yqt81816"><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);"><div><span></span></div><div>Jon,</div><div dir="ltr">I don't know whether you have followed, but I have made a brushless 2000W thruster</div><div dir="ltr">which I trialed in a pool for 30 hrs. The glue on the hall sensor board melted</div><div dir="ltr">& it stopped because the timing went out. Apparently the glue was designed to melt</div><div dir="ltr">so people could adjust the timing. The thruster got hot because the compensating oil</div><div dir="ltr">was being forced away from the motor through centrifugal force, & up the wiring tube.</div><div dir="ltr">If I had an overpressure on the system I could have prevented this, but didn't think it</div><div dir="ltr">was needed in a few feet of water. I was running this motor with 2 lip seals with ambient</div><div dir="ltr">pressure in between, but have purchased a mechanical seal for the next version.</div><div dir="ltr"> It had a comparable or better thrust to Watt ratio than a lot of the advertised ratings</div><div dir="ltr">of commercial thrusters.</div><div dir="ltr"> I think it is a matter of time before Minn kota put out a brushless thruster if they haven't</div><div dir="ltr">yet. Most of the commercial ROV & submarine thrusters are now brushless.</div><div dir="ltr"> If there was enough room to fit a mechanical seal on a Minn kota it would be a big</div><div dir="ltr">improvement. The white paper suggests grinding the Minn kota shaft to a specific</div><div dir="ltr">finish, with matching bearing & seal, however a mechanical seal is more tolerant of</div><div dir="ltr">the shaft surface finish & you could avoid this.</div><div dir="ltr"> Re the heat; one concern is transferring heat off the windings, which oil compensating</div><div dir="ltr">will do 100 times better than air. However Minn kota motors would have large gauge windings </div><div dir="ltr">that can cope with the heat.</div><div dir="ltr">Below is a 2010 thread by Carsten dealing with expansion.</div><div dir="ltr">Alan</div><pre style="color:rgb(0,0,0);text-transform:none;text-indent:0px;letter-spacing:normal;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;word-spacing:0px;">Alan and the other gentlemens,
our expierence with oil filled motors, batterys or even propeller shafts is that the oil expand if the motor is runing longer time.
Simple because its warm up. We had that problem on Eurosub on the first dives.
And on Euronaut we filled the bladder complet up and the get pretty hard in the hot summer just by sun heating the sub.
A full filled bladder with over pressure creates a lot of interal
pressure in the wrong direct - a lot of force for the bladder itself and hose work.
Therefore our bladder are only half expand during the filling. But still free of any air.
An other point is that the bladder has to be not to small.
To create a slightly overpressure on the motorseal you just install the bladder below the motorcasing.
But we found out that on trolling motor (electric outboards) this is not nessesary. There seals are good for some
douzend feets at least - so you can install the bladder else were.
Filling is simpler if the bladder is slightly over the motor - you can vent the system direct on the filling point.
Another point is that we install now one bladder per motor - in the earlier sub (Sgt.Peppers) we install a central
one for all motors. Hard to find a leak after a dive with all the T-crossing piepings and motorseals..
vbr Carsten</pre><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"></div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div style="display:block;"> <div style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> </font><hr size="1"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a>><br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs. org</a>> <br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Sent:</span></b> Thursday, April 6, 2017 8:31 AM<br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Oil Compensator<br clear="none"> </div> <div><br clear="none"><div><div>
<div>Hi Alan,<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Yeah, that white paper pretty much just states fill it with oil
and you're good to go. It doesn't address some of the issues that
have come up on the list regarding heat and expansion, inter-seal
cavity, etc. I understand the drive to find a perfect solution
and that minn-kota oil compensation is not perfect, I'm just
trying to understand the real-world ramifications of using it as
that white paper suggests and most psubbers have implemented.
Given that water is such a good heat sink, are the heat and
expansion issues of the oil really that serious? I know Alec
wrote something about his experience with this some time ago but
am having a hard time finding that thread. Pretty sure SNOOPY is
still using simple oil compensation regardless.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Jon<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div><br clear="none">
On 4/5/2017 4:02 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles wrote:<br clear="none">
</div></div><div>
<blockquote>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px;background-color:rgb(255,255,255);">
<div><span></span></div>
<div>Jon,</div>
<div>Cliff has been doing
a lot of work on Minn kota modifications & has the hands</div>
<div dir="ltr">on
experience. If he's not tuning in it would be worth contacting
him privately.</div>
<div dir="ltr">The
Minn-kota seal set up is not ideal, with the gap between the
two seals</div>
<div dir="ltr">meaning
one or the other seals will fail when their pressure rating is
exceeded.</div>
<div dir="ltr">The outer
seal seems to serve a double purpose, being the first line of
defense</div>
<div dir="ltr">against
water ingress & also a sacrificial seal that will see all
the abrasive muck stirred up by the prop.</div>
<div dir="ltr">Noticed in
this kit that the outer seal has a shield to protect it.</div>
<div dir="ltr"><img src="http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-9zqwsza/products/284334/images/633/880-006__65028.1446824316.1280.1280.png?c=2"></div>
<div dir="ltr">Historically
in deep diving set ups they have had dual seals, but with
either ambient pressure between them,</div>
<div dir="ltr">or a
cascaded pressure system, and normally mechanical seals. The
outer seal was regarded as sacrificial.</div>
<div dir="ltr"> Maybe
you could pack between the seals with grease to reduce the air
gap. </div>
<div dir="ltr">I am not
sure whether you could simply reverse the inner seal or not as
they need a shoulder that the pressure</div>
<div dir="ltr">will push
them up against.</div>
<div dir="ltr">Cliff is
using a small relieving air regulator to compensate his
motors. The regulator is fed air from your tanks</div>
<div dir="ltr">& is
set at an overpressure of about 4psi. The regulator is
orientated upside down as the relieving air feeds</div>
<div dir="ltr">out
through the handle portion & the orientation will stop
water entering when this valve opens.</div>
<div dir="ltr">This
system was suggested by Hugh, & Cliff is trialing it. It
has the advantage that you could either air or oil</div>
<div dir="ltr">compensate.
If your motor ran out of oil it would just be replaced with
air above ambient pressure.</div>
<div dir="ltr">I am not
sure at what pressure the relieving valve opens.</div>
<div dir="ltr"> There
is this very good Psub resource from an expert in modifying
Minn kotas for underwater use.</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br clear="none">
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