<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><span></span></div><div><div>Good idea Alec,</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">you are turning your lathe in to a linisher.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">I am making my light housing at the moment, & a couple of these</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">grooves are fiddly little internal grooves, that I need to get in to by hand</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">but the sandpaper idea will be good for external work.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"> I see you are down as machinist for Cliff's light housing. Have you done that yet?</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Alan</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br><br>Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On 26/02/2017, at 1:42 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Hi Alan,<div><br></div><div>I'm referring to this stuff: <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sanding-rolls/=16i9o51">https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sanding-rolls/=16i9o51</a></div><div><br></div><div>It's the same as regular sandpaper except it comes in long rolls. You just tear off say 2 feet of it. Pass it around the back of the piece you've just machined on the lathe. Start the lathe and work the strip back and forth while holding onto both ends of the strip. Spray with coolant for a smoother polish - That's it!</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Best,</div><div><br>Alec</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 10:46 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto"><div>Hi Alec,</div><div id="m_8520919370815099170AppleMailSignature">not quite following you. Do you mean cutting a strip of sandpaper</div><div id="m_8520919370815099170AppleMailSignature">& rolling it length ways & taping it? I have just been using my hands</div><div id="m_8520919370815099170AppleMailSignature">if it seems safe enough. Did lose a finger one time but not on a lathe :)</div><span class=""><div id="m_8520919370815099170AppleMailSignature">Alan<br><br>Sent from my iPad</div></span><div><div class="h5"><div><br>On 25/02/2017, at 4:19 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.<wbr>org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Hi Alan,<div><br></div><div>Get yourself some rolls of sandpaper. Not sheets but rolls, about an inch wide. When you're done turning your piece, crank up the speed a bit and put a length of tape around it. It allows you to polish it up while keeping your hands away. Go to your fine tape and then spray with coolant for the final polish. I can't think of anything I turn on a lathe that I don't use tape on. Ah, the only exception is plastic. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Best,<br><br>Alec</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 24, 2017 at 8:52 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.<wbr>org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Thanks Brian & Hank,<br>
it was the outer egdes that I left sharp.<br>
It didn't cut nicely, it left a raised mound on the edge that I removed with a facing tool.<br>
I will either look in to a specific groove tool or better equipment for forming the<br>
tool as these are taking too long :(<br>
<span class="m_8520919370815099170im m_8520919370815099170HOEnZb">Alan<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad<br>
<br>
</span><div class="m_8520919370815099170HOEnZb"><div class="m_8520919370815099170h5">> On 25/02/2017, at 1:49 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.o<wbr>rg</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
><br>
> Don't need carbide for aluminum, did it cut nicely, aluminum likes high speed<br>
><br>
> brian<br>
><br>
><br>
> --- <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.or<wbr>g</a> wrote:<br>
><br>
> From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.o<wbr>rg</a>><br>
> To: <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.or<wbr>g</a><br>
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] O-ring groove machining<br>
> Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2017 12:41:39 +1300<br>
><br>
> Am cutting some small o-ring grooves in aluminum, 3.4mm x 2mm deep for<br>
> a 2.5mm D o-ring. ( 10th of an inch) What is the best way to remove the sharp<br>
> corners of the grove? I have read that you can spin your work in the lathe<br>
> & sand with 200 & then 400 grit sand paper. Is this right?<br>
> Have been having fun making the tool for this & don't think I have done a<br>
> good job! Am I best to buy a carbide tool specific for this job.<br>
> Thanks, Alan<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPad<br>
><br>
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