<div dir="ltr">Snoopy's valve is just a round plate welded into the coning tower shell, it's vertical. </div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 12:24 AM, via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div style="FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;COLOR:#000000"><font color="#000000" size="2" face="Arial">
<div><font size="3">Keith,</font></div>
<div><font size="3"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3">Sorry, I just got home. I was hoping Alec and some
others with more experience than I have would chime in as I see has now
happened. There have been some good discussions on OP valves in the
past. I think some have installed a T (on its side) inside the sub so
the air enters the horizontal portion, and any water that comes in
goes down to a small trap or into a tube that leads to a reservoir.
Others just use a rag to catch the small amount of water.</font></div>
<div><font size="3"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3">Alec, does the OP on the exterior of Snoopy point downward
after it exits at the top?</font></div>
<div><font size="3"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3">We've also discussed having an air pressure gauge or altimeter
set to zero (1 atm) before diving. If it indicates any pressure above
that level at anytime during your dive, you'll know you'll have an over pressure
situation to deal with as you surface and you'll have an indication of how
severe that will be. We've also discussed various things that could cause
an over pressure condition.</font></div>
<div><font size="3"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3">Best regards,</font></div>
<div><font size="3">Jim</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div>
<div>In a message dated 6/18/2015 7:09:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a> writes:</div>
<blockquote style="PADDING-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:blue 2px solid"><font style="BACKGROUND-COLOR:transparent" color="#000000" size="2" face="Arial">
<div dir="ltr">If it opens when submerged, it is because air is on the way out,
and that prevents water from coming in. Its like blowing through your nose
underwater, your nose is open but if you're blowing, you don't get water in
your lungs.
<div><br></div>
<div>Certainly you do get a little water in if you push the valve open
manually while submerged, as a test. Or a few drops if you do so when surfaced
to equalize, as the valve is all wet. But its nothing much.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br>
<div>Best,<br><br>Alec</div></div></div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 7:19 PM, Ken Martindale via
Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT:1ex;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid">TEST!!!<span class=""><br><br>-----Original
Message-----<br>From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]
On Behalf Of via Personal_Submersibles<br>Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 4:28
PM<br>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br></span><div><div class="h5">Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Over Pressure Valve<br><br>How do you keep water from going
back down the valve, and into the sub, if it opens when
submerged?<br><br>Keith T<br><br>via Personal_Submersibles <<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>>
wrote:<br><br>>If the pressure differential exceeds the preset
cracking pressure, the<br>>valve will open on its own to relieve
the excess pressure. If the pressure<br>>differential is less
than the cracking pressure, it would have to be<br>>opened
manually. If the differential were only slightly greater
than<br>>the preset cracking pressure, I suppose opening it manually
would open<br>>it wider for more rapid equalization on many types of
valves.<br>>Jim<br>><br>><br>>In a message dated 6/18/2015
2:40:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,<br>><a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>
writes:<br>><br>><br>>Jim,<br>>
In that case is it necessary to bump the sealed check
valve<br>>to make it open?<br>><br>><br>>Alec, I guess
what I meant to say was if the check valve is left in<br>>an open line to
the outside all the time, rather than being isolated by<br>>another
valve.<br>><br>>Brian<br>><br>>--- <a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>
wrote:<br>><br>>From: via Personal_Submersibles <<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>>To:
<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a><br>>Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 14:53:15
-0400<br>><br>><br>><br>>Brian, it also has to do with cracking
pressure. When you surface the<br>>sub might be slightly over
pressure but not with enough differential<br>>to open the valve
automatically. That's when you open it manually.<br>>That
would also equalize pressure if you have negative pressure in
the<br>>sub to make it a whole lot easier to open the
hatch.<br>>Jim<br>><br>><br>>In a message dated 6/18/2015
1:40:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time,<br>><a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>
writes:<br>><br>>It is nothing but a T shape sealed by a spring. If
internal pressure<br>>builds up, it pushes the spring and the valve
opens. So it is a<br>>normally closed valve... but I suppose you could
say its "open all the<br>>time" in the sense that anytime pressure
builds up, it will open.<br>><br>>On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 2:35 PM,
Brian Cox via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>wrote:<br>><br>><br>>Couldn't you, theoretically,
have that valve open to the outside all
the<br>>time?<br>><br>>Brian<br>><br>>---
_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
wrote:<br>><br>>From: Alec Smyth via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18
Jun 2015 12:15:57 -0400<br>><br>><br>><br>><br>>I think
most have an OP valve, and I'd strongly encourage any who<br>>don't
to put one in. If you read Kittredge's book, the lack of an OP<br>>valve
was the cause of the only K-boat accident so far. Fortunately<br>>nothing
happened to him, but Kittredge had a slow cabin air leak during<br>>his
dive and upon surfacing blew out the dome when just below
the<br>>surface. He was blown out himself with it. The sub sank,
and he<br>>proceeded to re-float it without losing beat. I use the
OP valve<br>>routinely to equalize pressure so I can open the hatch
easily. Just a<br>>little push on the stem does it. One thing about
OP valves, they have<br>>to be capable of handling large flow
rates. Don't use a little Swagelok check valve or such small
thing.<br>><br>><br>>Best,<br>><br>>Alec<br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>>On
Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:55 AM, Brian Cox via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>wrote:<br>><br>>Also Alec, I noticed
your check valve overpressure valve in the photo<br>>section.
That seems like a great solution to the problem! I guess I
was<br>>not aware of that, does everybody have one of
those?<br>><br>><br>>Brian<br>><br>>---
_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
wrote:<br>><br>>From: hank pronk via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18
Jun 2015 05:25:30 -0700<br>><br>><br>><br>>personally, I
always avoid welding a machined part to the hull. I<br>>weld
a flange or nipple to the hull then bolt or thread the machined part
to that.<br>> This is my solution to a lack of tooling and
expertise.<br>>Hank
--------------------------------------------<br>>On Thu, 6/18/15,
James Frankland via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_
(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
> wrote:<br>><br>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Idea..?<br>>To: "Personal Submersibles General
Discussion"<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>Received: Thursday, June 18, 2015, 4:58
AM<br>><br>>Hi<br>>Alec\Brian, Yes, maybe it
would<br>>push in. A flat step would probably be better like
you<br>>say. But maybe im over thinking it as usual.
Probably<br>>not required. Brian, I used the<br>>5\8ths
bar because that's what was specified on the<br>>plans.
However, its also convenient for using a 16mm<br>>reamer for
the bore.<br>>regardsJames<br>>On 18 June 2015 at
03:04,<br>>Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
<_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>wrote:<br>>Oh cool ! Thanks
Alec<br>>! I owe you much over the years<br>>!
Brian<br>>--- _personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>wrote:<br>><br>>From:
Alec Smyth via<br>>Personal_Submersibles
<_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>><br>>Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56
-0400<br>><br>>Hi Brian,<br>>I tend to use quite
thick<br>>through-hulls because its easier for me to machine the
O-ring grooves<br>>into the shaft than into the insert. In my case
its just a matter of<br>>the tooling I have on hand. If you have
the tooling to put the grooves<br>>in the insert, half an inch is
fine for many
applications.<br>>Best,<br>><br>>Alec<br>>On<br>>Wed,
Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via
Personal_Submersibles<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>wrote:<br>>Alec, James, I'm<br>>using mostly
1/2" stainless rod through-out for most all of my
hull<br>>penetrations ( for valves and flaps) , I noticed in
the example it<br>>was a 5/8" rod, Why such a heavy duty
thickness? Was that for a<br>>particular function?
Brian<br>><br>>--- _personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>wrote:<br>><br>>From:
Alec Smyth via<br>>Personal_Submersibles
<_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>To: Personal Submersibles General
Discussion<br>><_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>><br>>Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17
-0400<br>><br>>Hi James,<br>>I think<br>>with the taper,
this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is neat,<br>>however,
and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper.<br>>On
the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever
fail<br>>catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all
I've bad as<br>>I've
seen.<br>>Best,<br>>Alec<br>>On<br>>Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at
12:26 PM, James Frankland via<br>>Personal_Submersibles
<_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_<br>>(mailto:<a title="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)
><br>>wrote:<br>>Hi All Seeing as its a<br>>bit quite I
thought I would show this idea. Its super simple....
I<br>>have been thinking how you could stop a leaking through
hull.<br>>Thinking of K boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the
plans. I<br>>believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to
a faulty O<br>>ring?<br>><br>>Anyway, here is my idea.
It<br>>would take a little bit more machining, but not
much.<br>>Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding
part and a taper<br>>on the top to help push the bar
through.<br>>(I did that on mine anyway). The handle is made
with a cam type end.<br>><br>>If you get a<br>>leak, you can
pull the handle up. The bar would be pulled up,
forcing<br>>the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully
stopping most of the<br>>leak. I suppose you could even
machine a matching taper into the<br>>start of the through hull to
match? I suppose the bar could get pushed<br>>through and jam on its
own. That's a possibility. Pic attached.
Kind<br>>RegardsJames
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