<div dir="ltr">Hi Brian,<div><br></div><div>I tend to use quite thick through-hulls because its easier for me to machine the O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my case its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you have the tooling to put the grooves in the insert, half an inch is fine for many applications.</div><div><br></div><div>Best,<br><br>Alec </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:10pt"><div>Alec, James, I'm using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most all of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) , I noticed in the example it was a 5/8" rod, Why such a heavy duty thickness? Was that for a particular function?</div><div> </div><div>Brian<br><br>--- <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a> wrote:<br><br>From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400<br><br></div><div><div class="h5"><div dir="ltr">Hi James,<div><br></div><div>I think with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper. On the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've seen.</div><div><br></div><div>Best,</div><div><br>Alec</div></div><div><br><div>On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi All</div><div> </div><div>Seeing as its a bit quite I thought I would show this idea. Its super simple....</div><div> </div><div>I have been thinking how you could stop a leaking through hull. Thinking of K boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans.</div><div> </div><div>I believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a faulty O ring?<br><br>Anyway, here is my idea. It would take a little bit more machining, but not much. Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding part and a taper on the top to help push the bar through. (I did that on mine anyway). The handle is made with a cam type end. <br><br>If you get a leak, you can pull the handle up. The bar would be pulled up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully stopping most of the leak. I suppose you could even machine a matching taper into the start of the through hull to match?</div><div> </div><div>I suppose the bar could get pushed through and jam on its own. That's a possibility.</div><div> </div><div>Pic attached.</div><div> </div><div>Kind Regards</div><div>James</div><div> </div><div><img width="499" height="535" src="cid:20150617122202.EA3901B8@m0048140.ppops.net"><br></div></div>
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