<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Hi Jon,</div><div>good point about the vulnerable protruding pins.</div><div>SubConn do sell dummy fittings that could be fitted on to the spare motors protruding</div><div>pins & locked in place with the locking sleeves. The ideal set up would, as you say be a</div><div>male / male extension cord & female on the motor & hull penetrator. The main problem</div><div>is that it goes against a World wide convention, & for those of us trying to build to rules.</div><div>it may be problematic. There is a G.L. section on electrical rules for submarines which is </div><div>a sub section of electrical rules for ships. I would have to go through the ship rules to</div><div>find out. </div><div>I don't know whether we could just carry a spare motor connector out in the field.</div><div>It may be that you have to pull the motor apart to attach the connector. Unfortunately</div><div>I don't have a 101 motor so can't get down to the nitty gritty of this. My worries are </div><div>having enough wire to attach the connector to the motor then twist it in the opposite</div><div>direction prior to screwing the connector in; but not having too much slack wire that</div><div>it won't fit in the small area of the motor stub. It may be that Vance & David's solution</div><div>of cutting down the shaft that fits in the stub, is the way to go.</div><div>Might have to leave this up to Cliff when he gets back to sort out.</div><div>With the kort nozzles I built it was easy to slide in a new motor, & I could replace one</div><div>in a minute. But that brings us back to the generic kort nozzle thread that we had a</div><div>while back.</div><div>Alan</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br>Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On 31/07/2014, at 12:31 am, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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A male connector threaded directly into the housing shaft stub is
going to suffer the same potential of broken pins depending upon
handling. One clumsy move and you may have an unusable motor in
the field so you'd have to carry some spare male connectors just
in case. Additionally, unless you have a configuration in which
you can slide the motor into it's mounting and at the same time
mate the male (motor) and female (hull) connectors you're going to
end up with a pigtail or cable of some sort to make the electrical
connection from motor to hull. So I think you'd be better off
with a female connector on the motor and a cable with two male
connectors to make the electrical connection if a cable is
required to make the electrical connection.<br>
<br>
If SubConn could produce a two pin high power connector you could
save penetrations by using a 4 pin female on the hull to feed two
motors. This would require a custom cable but the K600 used a
similar configuration for the original lights.<br>
<br>
When we did our last minn-kota order the saltwater versions were
the same price as the fresh water versions so there was no
incentive to go with fresh even though they would work just as
well.<br>
<br>
Jon<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/30/2014 6:15 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:1406715303.15878.YahooMailNeo@web120901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com" type="cite">
<div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff;
font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial,
Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:10pt">
<div class="" style=""><span class="" style="">David & Cliff</span></div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;"><span class="" style="">was thinking that if we
used the 4 pin high power connector,</span></div>
<div style="background-color: transparent;" class=""><span class="" style=""><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://macartney.com/sites/default/files/brochures/SubConn_High_Power_4pins_0.pdf" class="" style="">http://macartney.com/sites/default/files/brochures/SubConn_High_Power_4pins_0.pdf</a><br class="" style="">
</span></div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">then the 2 spare pins could have a thermister on
them measuring the motor temperature </div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">as you were intending to do David.</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">The HPBH4M "male" fitting on the motor would
mean you would have as Cliff suggested, the safety feature</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">in that if the male & female came apart the
live end would be female & wouldn't short on anything</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">(apart from water).</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">I am wondering if there is any off the shelf
adapter we could use to screw this straight on to the motor
wiring outlet.</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">Also is it feasable to attach bayonets or
whatever to the pigtails (does it have pigtails) to fit them
directly to the motor electrics.</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">Can this be done while the motor is apart &
then be put back together?</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">Any thoughts?</div>
<div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family:
HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida
Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color:
transparent;">Cliff, are you intending to use the saltwater
motor controller?</div>
<div class="" style=""><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage/saltwater.aspx?sectionID=3" class="" style="font-size: 10pt;">http://www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage/saltwater.aspx?sectionID=3</a><br>
</div>
<div class="" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px;
font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica,
Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal;
background-color: transparent;">Alan</div>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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