<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Alec / Joe,</div><div>I will contact a friend who is in the 3d printing business, and try & find out a bit more</div><div>about this application & casting materials.</div><div>You would need to incorporate risers (tubes) in the design to vent air for the resin </div><div>pouring process, & maybe " keys" on the inside of the mould to give the resin more</div><div>grip to the printed shell.</div><div>Cheers Alan</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br>Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On 9/11/2013, at 12:24 AM, Alec Smyth <<a href="mailto:alecsmyth@gmail.com">alecsmyth@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Hi Alan,<div><br></div><div>I like this idea! I have a printer I built myself so am a little familiar with them. One of the parameters you provide the printers on each job controls the "filling" of the piece. Normally, to save material that is a sort of cross-hatch, and the parameters control things like the direction and density of that cross-hatch. But the problem with that, for an underwater application, is that the resulting piece is full of air voids. I'd always assumed I would print something like this solid. However, if you print it hollow and fill it with structural fiberglass, the end result is going to be a lot stronger than if it's solid plastic. In addition, if we printed by parts but filled it up once those parts are assembled, the resin itself could be the "glue" that holds those parts together.</div>
<div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><br>Alec </div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 10:01 PM, Alan James <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif"><div>
<div><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:HelveticaNeue,'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,'Lucida Grande',sans-serif">Joe,<div><div><div style="font-size:10pt;font-family:HelveticaNeue,'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,'Lucida Grande',sans-serif">
<div></div></div></div></div><div>I was re thinking your idea of a printed Kort nozzle.</div><div>There are printer kits for $900- that would do the job.</div><div><a href="http://www.3dstuffmaker.com/" target="_blank">http://www.3dstuffmaker.com/</a><br>
</div><div>The ABS printer cable I've seen selling for about $1- an ounce.</div><div>The $899- version in the above link could possibly be big enough to print</div><div>the nozzle in one shot. If not then print it in sections & glue together.</div>
<div>My idea is to print the nozzle hollow with an egg shell wall thickness & fill it with</div><div>a fiber reinforced epoxy resin. The resin may need a few pours to allow for contractions</div><div>in the resin while setting.</div>
<div>Maybe under
$30- in materials.</div><div>I am not at the point where I need this & neither are you, but I think this idea still</div><div>holds a lot of promise.</div><div>Regards Alan</div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div>
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