[PSUBS-MAILIST] Ammeter Question

Wed Jan 10 10:08:45 EST 2018

Rick, I use a company called CRMagnetics for DC current and voltage
transmitters. See  http://www.crmagnetics.com/analog-transducers  I have
two battery banks on my boat, the  main buss (36VDC) and the auxiliary
buss(24VDC).  I use these hall effect 0-5VDC analog voltage transmitters
for the voltage and current in each bank.  Specicially I use the CR5310-30
for voltage and CR5210-20 for the voltage and current of the auxiliary bank
and CR5310-50 for voltage and CR5210-200 for the voltage and current of the
main battery bank.  I take each of these signals into a voltage analog
input module in in my PLC.  These transmitters are a bit pricy at $170-$200
retail from manufacturer but they come up on ebay all the time at a
fraction of this cost. These four transmitters have been rock solid.

Cliff

On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 8:28 PM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> Thanks for the attachments and input. Are your thrustors 12V? On my 350,
> my 12v system just runs the instruments so the draw on the 12v should be
> pretty low but on my 36v side I will need a much larger amp meter as my 3
> thrusters at max will be 140 amps but I am also running 6 external LED
> lights off that bank as well @ about 2.75 amps per lite.
> Rick
>
> On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 3:17 PM, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Rick, I am making the same decision currently.  I am leaning toward using
>> a 300A ammeter to monitor total current draw in my 12V DC system (see
>> attached example and working sketch).
>>
>> I am going to use the “circular loop” style tap (hall effect sensor)
>> mainly because the point I am monitoring is 2/0 AWG.  Not an easy thing to
>> splice into.
>>
>>
>>
>> There might be some sensitivity/accuracy issues associated with the exact
>> location of the wire within the sensor but I not concerned with high
>> accuracy as much as a repeatable reference. I would guess you could
>> arrange/install it such as to minimize this positional concern.
>>
>> I am not sure about the sensor being affected by “touching” the hull but
>> I would just mount it such that it avoids that contact.
>>
>>
>>
>> Personally I am not monitoring individual thruster circuits but am
>> relying on breakers to indicate issues.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am trying to keep things simple in my K-250.
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
>> bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 9, 2018 7:49 PM
>> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
>>
>>
>>
>> Can't get into my contacts page to send a new thread rite now (I hate
>> computers) so gonna tag this thread for something different, sorry...
>>
>>
>>
>> I am getting ready to purchase my amp and volt meters for the 12V and 36V
>> banks and had a few questions. There are two ways that I know of to tap
>> into a line to measure current. One is a direct splice and the other is
>> using a meter that has a DROK/necklace that encircles the wire you want to
>> measure. Would like to know the best way to go on those types. It would be
>> a lot easier to use a necklace type to minimize the amount of splices that
>> I have to make and moisture proof but a friend of mine said that there is a
>> minute difference in readings if the wire is up against the side of the
>> necklace rather than in the middle and I also wounder if having the
>> necklace up against the steel hull would mess with the readings?  I also
>> assume that I should have a separate amp meter for each of my three
>> thrusters?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 8, 2018 at 6:08 AM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Cliff,   I ordered those items !    I'm going to get another style flow
>> meter as well .  How accurate is that acrylic flow meter?
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>
>> From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
>> Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 14:21:18 -0600
>>
>> Brian, in my (Air Monitoring, Oxygen Control) AMOC system, I use a Porter
>> 201-FSVP mass controller.  Ebay has these units for sell all the time at
>> pennies on the dollar. These unit will both measure the mass rate of the
>> gas in SLPM and also control it. There are two 0-5VDC control signals for
>> the unit.  For this partuclar unit which has a 0-10 SLPM span, if you give
>> the controller pin 5V, then it will pass 10 SLPM if you give it 0V, it will
>> pass zero SLPM.  The other singal is an analog voltage output signal again
>> 5Vdc for full span, would be a measured 10 SLPM and a zero signal means it
>> is reading zero mass flowrate of gas.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porte
>> r-201-AFASVPAA-Mass-Flow-Controller-10-SLPM-760-Torr-MFC/
>> 232159305887?hash=item360dc5e09f:g:BTAAAOSwmrlUrcG1 is a link to ebay
>> for a unit very close to this.  Porter (Parker) make a ton of different
>> controller for different rates and different gasses.  The controller as a 9
>> pin blade style connector that is used widely in the medical industry.  The
>> documentation on these meters is excellent and you can download it
>> https://www.parker.com/literature/MFM%20&%20MFC%20(D-Conn.)%
>> 20(FM-898%20Rev.%20E).pdf .  The manual calls out the spec for the
>> connector.  I use this unit with a PLC but single it is analog voltage
>> signals, you could control with potentiometer off a 5VDC source.  Likewise
>> you could use an analog display that would take a 0-5VDC signal if you
>> wanted. I have found these units to be very reliable.  In my Life support
>> system module, I use a Swagelok a Vernier needle valve model SS-SS4-VH
>> as a bypass around this controller for manual O2 bleed control.  As a
>> backup, I use a variable area meter like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019
>> YS4PSG/ref=asc_df_B019YS4PSG5328541/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=
>> 395033&creativeASIN=B019YS4PSG&linkCode=df0&
>> hvadid=198097951144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=
>> 6957636125906653374&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&
>> hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027968&hvtargid=pla-542207540152 .
>>
>>
>>
>> Cliff
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 1:56 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> I just talked to my local dive shop and they will fill O2 no questions
>> asked .  They say they do it all the time.  I'm thinking of getting set up
>> with a package from DAN  Here:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.diversalertnetwork.org/dive-store/?catno=9
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> It seems to be somewhat problematic getting the right all the components
>> but getting one of these units from the DAN website might make things
>> easier as far as getting bottles filled and so forth.  The delivery system
>> on these units I don't think has enough fine tuning ability however.  Does
>> anyone have a good flow meter to recommend?  Is there an analog type with a
>> little ball that floats up and down?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>
>> From: "Sean T. Stevenson via Personal_Submersibles" <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] At Home O2 Cleaning Process
>> Date: Sat, 06 Jan 2018 13:58:20 -0500
>>
>> I use dilute acetic acid to remove any existing corrosion, and then a
>> non-solvent hydrocarbon-free detergent solution to clean, followed by a
>> freshwater rinse, and possibly another cycle using a separate clean batch
>> of detergent solution. Use dedicated brushes for each bin. A lint-free
>> cloth should come back clean, and the cleaner solution and rinse water
>> should both produce no fluorescence under UV (black light). Dry passively,
>> or with filtered air or bottled nitrogen so as not to reintroduce any
>> contaminants. Any subsequent lubrication or assembly with lubricated soft
>> parts should be done with oxygen compatible lubricants (i.e. Christolube).
>>
>> Sean
>>
>> Sent from ProtonMail mobile
>>
>>
>>
>> -------- Original Message --------
>> On Jan 6, 2018, 09:23, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> All, I am working on cleaning some parts/pieces for O2 service on my
>> K-250. I am buying most items “pre-cleaned” such as: Tank w/Valve, First
>> Stage Regulator, Thru Hull Isolation Valve, Flow Regulator.
>>
>>
>>
>> However, I will have some parts & pieces (mainly misc. adaptors and ¼ SS
>> tubing) I may still need to clean.
>>
>> I know an “at home” process will fall short but looking to
>> create/document a procedure anyway.
>>
>> ·        I am using ASTM G93, "Standard Practice for Cleaning Methods
>> and Cleanliness Levels for Material and Equipment Used in Oxygen-Enriched
>> Environments" as the standard.
>>
>> ·
>>
>> ·        Maybe someone already has a procedure (or opinion) they want to
>> share?
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>
>> ·
>>
>>
>>
>> ·        I am using ASTM G93, "Standard Practice for Cleaning Methods
>> and Cleanliness Levels for Material and Equipment Used in Oxygen-Enriched
>> Environments" as the standard.  I know an “at home” process will fall short
>> but looking to create/document a procedure anyway.
>>
>> ·
>>
>>
>>
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