[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED lights

Fri Feb 2 15:07:46 EST 2018

Alan,

Very impressive system! I am planning on having 5 on my sub so not sure
those would be in my budget...
Rick

On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 9:24 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Rick,
> They are 1 atm, not oil filled.
> I bought the 7000 lm emitter from the manufacturer in China.
> They make the bridgelux emitters. I had ordered them with the pigtails on
> as I didn't want to overheat the emitter with my cheap soldering set up.
> The driver is the circuit board you can see with a potentiometer for
> dimming
> coming off it. This is a buck / boost constant current driver, meaning it
> can
> take any voltage between 12-54V & boost it up to or drop it down to 36V &
> also maintain a constant current. Led's get hot & draw more current so
> need a
> cc driver to stop them burning out. Not a problem if the voltage is below
> a certain
> threshold. The driver was manufactured to my specs in China. As said
> before,
> I am going to have this modified. I ordered the housing from a different
> supplier.
> The led is screwed on to the base with a heat transferring paste. I have
> tiny teflon
> washers under the screws. There is a teflon gasket that the lens sits on &
> another as a buffer sitting on the led screws as protection against wires
> shorting
> on the housing where they are soldered on to the led.
> I have 4 o-ring seals, two in the base, one at the side of the lens & one
> on top
> of the lens.
> At the top of the photo you can see a mold  I made for a cable support &
> tidy
> up of the wiring. The wiring was embedded in resin then overlaid to an inch
> up the pvc wiring with a pvc glue before the polyurathane cable support was
> molded over it. ( not shown)
> 6 bolts run right through it with nuts at the back holding it all together.
> I can mount it using these bolts. longer bolts can be used for mounting if
> necessary. Alternatively the front plate can be made wider with additional
> holes for mounting to a hole in the superstructure etc.
> The housing is aluminium & was marine anodised.
> I do have drawings on my computer & machining notes that may need
> updating. The light was tested to 2000ft but would probably go at least
> 4000ft.
> You are welcome to more detail if you are still keen to make some up.
> Cheers Alan
>
> [image: image1.jpeg]
> [image: image2.JPG]
>
> On 3/02/2018, at 6:35 AM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi Alan,
>
> Did you buy just a 7,000lm array and put them in a housing or did they
> already come in a housing and you filled them like Hank did? Not sure what
> a driver is either?? Is it a PWM that acts like a driver and a dimmer as
> well? Do you have any pictures on your projects and photos page of this I
> can look at and could you send me the particulars offline on where you
> bought the drivers and arrays? and Cliff, please send me what you have as
> well.
> Mahalo!
> satwelder at gmail.com
> Thanks
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Rick,
>> I have built my led 7000lm 36V lights & are going to use 2 out front.
>> I have used them on a boat & in the bush & don't consider them an
>> overkill. I think with the clear water in Hawaii you would want more
>> lumens as there will be a further distance that you can see night diving.
>> I have dimmers on mine for low visibility diving, as the back scatter from
>> the muck in the water will be blinding.
>> Led's need a driver to give them constant current & of lesser importance
>> constant voltage. They are reasonably voltage tolerant as long as the
>> current
>> is controlled. I mistakenly had a 36V led running off 80V.
>> You can build your own but for me it was a lot of mucking about designing,
>> sourcing lenses from China etc. I had my led driver designed & made
>> specifically for me by a Chinese firm. I am not happy with aspects of the
>> design as there is a certain part that needs heat sinking & default mode
>> is on if the wiring comes apart. So will be re-ordering an updated driver
>> some time in the future.
>> You can find suitable buck boost drivers on ebay as Alec did, but not with
>> dimming.
>> They don't get too hot if you run them in water & heat sink them to a
>> base.
>> The easiest idea, as Hank says is to find a suitable off the shelf light
>> that
>> you can oil compensate. The drivers however have electrolytic capacitors
>> that are vulnerable to pressure, so if the driver is in the light unit it
>> could
>> fail under pressure if compensated.
>> I have subjected an led on it's own to 2000psi & it survived.
>> Most of the high power leds are around 36V.
>> Let me know if I can help.
>> Emile sells an led light!
>> Cheers Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 2/02/2018, at 10:33 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> Rick,
>> You can keep it real simple and just buy water proof lights (LED) and oil
>> fill them.  Just inspect the light to make sure you can drill and put a
>> filler plug in.  I have great luck with a 24,000 lumen light bar.   I am
>> actually buying a clear acrylic cylinder to put my light into.  Alec has
>> had luck with this also, maybe he can suggest the particular light to use.
>> Hank
>>
>> On Thursday, February 1, 2018, 2:06:41 PM MST, Rick Patton via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have been experimenting with my LED exterior lights which is a field I
>> know nothing about which makes it even that much more frustrating and
>> wanted to get feedback from those who have had success so far using them.
>>
>> I was planning on using incandescent lights but everyone I talk to say
>> that LED is the only way to go. I guess my reasoning for staying with
>> incandescent was that it was a no brainier for me but I liked what I heard
>> about LED. I initially figured that if 10 lumans is good 10,000 is much
>> better but I am finding out that once you get up to that high a luman, a
>> lot of things kick in that you have to deal with!
>>
>> I also am thinking that I can probably get away with a heck of a lot less
>> lumans due to the visibility that we have here in Hawaii so maybe all I
>> need are 5,000 luman lights which put out a lot less heat and don't have to
>> deal with some of the issues that a 10,000 luman light would.
>>
>> All input appreciated!
>> In the dark in Hawaii! not to mention fake missile alerts!!
>>
>> Rick
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