[PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40 and Brake Fluid there

Fri Mar 31 06:16:54 EDT 2017

The silicone DOT 5 brakefluid should be also possible. But I believe it is thicker than 5 cst.

Emile

Van: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] Namens Alan via Personal_Submersibles
Verzonden: vrijdag 31 maart 2017 10:58
Aan: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40 and Brake Fluid there

Brian,

I have 5cst silicone oil that I am going to try. But it was all that I could

find at the time. I would have preferred a grade nearer 20 cst. Reason being

that I have talked with bearing & mechanical seal experts & the thinner the

grade the more detrimental it is to both seals & bearings. Also the thinner

oil is going to be harder to contain. As said before, the paper I read on oil

filled submersible pumps talked about 20cst oil. I have heard of deionized 

water being used though.

Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 31/03/2017, at 5:41 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Jim,    I've been talking to the folks at Clearco and I think I might try this  PSF-5cSt Silicone Bath Fluiid

http://www.clearcoproducts.com/silicone-bath-low.html

the specific gravity of this product is .918  ,  practically water !    If I can cram enough wood into my motor pod hopefully I can cut down my volume ;-)  

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40 and Brake Fluid
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 22:39:46 -0400

Not all brake fluid is corrosive.  Over time, some types become corrosive due to the contaminants they pick up from wear in the system and from the moisture they absorb.  DOT 5 is silicone based and doesn't absorb moisture, although I've never thought of it as being used to compensate motors.

Jim

In a message dated 3/30/2017 7:49:46 A.M. Central Daylight Time, personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:

I've never tried it- just saw it at the parts store. I assume that it does not corrode rubber brake boots. Would have to be tested.

  _____  

From: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

James,    My experience is that brake fluid is extremely corrosive, it'll take paint off if you spill it on your car.  Not sure about silicone brake fluid.

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 02:21:58 +0000 (UTC)

For those looking for less expensive silicone oil try pricing out silicone brake fluid. It might be a little cheaper.

  _____  

From: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

         I hear what some are saying about the air compensation but when I started the design with these motor pods it was with oil compensation in mind so I'm going in that direction.  

I'm finally back working on sub stuff after a detour of redoing the front end of my Chevy ( ball Joints, spindles, upgrade to disk brakes etc..)  Anyway, I just did a pressure test on my motor

pod and I was satisfied that it should not leak oil.  I need to get some synatic foam however ( Scott !! ),  if I do use the silicone oil I want to use as little as possible since it's so expensive.  My motor pods 

hold the motor and gear box just fine except there is a lot of extra volume in there, I'm thinking to fill up the voids with the foam.  Granted it would be better to have a large volume of oil for cooling 

but I'm on a budget !   One thing interesting about the silicone oil is that it evaporates.  Not sure how fast on top of water but it may have different characteristics , like beading up rather than making a 

oil slick.  I'd like to play with some of it.

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2017 00:30:56 +0000 (UTC)

You will be our go to guy for lighting!

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Still building lights Hank,

have built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision &

hopefully this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's going.

Am getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.

Got off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one of

the lights for his boat. \uD83D\uDE10

Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Alan,

Are you back to work on your motor?   or are you still building lights?

Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Thanks' Greg

Alan, my answer is who cares if some water gets between the seals.  The important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the motor starts up at the surface, there is significant centrical force that pushes the oil out with the seal in its original orientation.  I should actually remove one of the seals and just have one seal holding oil in, just like a submersible well pump has.  Those pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said all this, I could be wrong ;-)   Stay tuned for test results.

Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

How are you doing that Hank?

Are you compensating the gap between the two seals?

Otherwise you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motors

where one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's depth

rating.

Cheers Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Greg,

Good points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil filling.  I have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors for Elementary.  One seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps the water out.  I am confident this in addition to the compensation system will make for a clean leak proof set up.  The ice is off the lake by my house, so my test lake should be open in a week or so.  I will know then if my idea works.

Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 7:03 AM, james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for compensating things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and rubber to harden and become brittle.

Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil compensation in general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very visible oil slick around your sub (not good). Most guys are using trolling motors and they're not really tight enough to hold thin oil without leaks.

Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it actually worked really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also been using air compensation for a long time without problems.

It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small bottle of air lasts for many dives.

Greg C

  _____  

From: " <mailto:MerlinSub at t-online.de%20via%20Personal_Submersibles> MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

On a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil. 

On motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that. 

Mineral oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little untight. 

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200

Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

Hi Carsten, 

                        I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on fire.  It's not as flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have improved it's non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat flammable however. 

I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors.

Brian

---  <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:

From: " <mailto:MerlinSub at t-online.de%20via%20Personal_Submersibles> MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)

Heat Vapor is may a problem with WD40. 

May ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that.. 

We change to silicon oil for that reason. 

vbr Carsten 

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200

Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

An: "PSubs" < <mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>

I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed to be very happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build up out of the motor.  I was surprised how sealed the motor was, it is open at one end where it mates to the gear box.  I was able to fill it up without it leaking out anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I want the mineral oil to fill all the voids.  I might need to actually drill some holes to get some circulation . 

Brian 

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