[PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

Thu Mar 30 07:10:21 EDT 2017

Brian,Yes wood, haha, works great for void filling.  The density will change after it has been compressed, but not an issue.  If you look at the mechanical properties of wood you will see that it has remarkable compressive strength.  I have been experimenting with making wood syntactic foam as a cheap alternative.  Hank 

    On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 10:29 PM, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Alec,
I just met a guy in California that made his own underwater housing and LED lighting system for doing video and he is using an LED board that is about 3" square. He has built a PWM for it so he can dim it down and says it's a 10,000 luman 100 watt system that runs on 32 volts. I don't know what a PWM is but he said that I didn't necessarily have to have one. I can step my thruster motor supply down from 36V but one of my concerns is how to get rid of the heat. He didn't seem to be too forthcoming with the system he built. I think the LED array was something like $15 each on Amazon. How are you controlling the heat in your housings and do you think I would need a PWM for my lite?
Rick

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 3:34 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

My lights are done, I put them on Shackleton earlier today and they are wired through the hull with penetrators. However, the wires end inside the hull because I'm waiting for the drives to arrive, which will be installed inside the sub. I was able to test them with a lab type power supply on a table top, and must say these Bridgelux leds are like a little sun in a can, I love them. These two lights I made are 5K lumens, and I already have 10K lumen Bridgeluxes which I bought by mistake. So I'll test these, and probably make another set with those more powerful ones. If I do, the 10Ks will be the forward lights and the 5Ks will be oriented out to the sides for "peripheral vision". A dimmable driver is sounding like a good idea, or maybe just sunglasses!

Best,
Alec
On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 9:10 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:

Thanks Hank,Alec has been making good progress with Cliff's light.Last I heard 2 housings were being anodised.Any update Cliff / Alec ?Alan

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On 30/03/2017, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

You will be our go to guy for lighting! 

    On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Still building lights Hank,have built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision &hopefully this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's going.Am getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.Got off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one ofthe lights for his boat. 😐Alan
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On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

Alan,Are you back to work on your motor?   or are you still building lights?Hank 

    On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 Thanks' Greg
Alan, my answer is who cares if some water gets between the seals.  The important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the motor starts up at the surface, there is significant centrical force that pushes the oil out with the seal in its original orientation.  I should actually remove one of the seals and just have one seal holding oil in, just like a submersible well pump has.  Those pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said all this, I could be wrong ;-)   Stay tuned for test results.Hank 

    On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 How are you doing that Hank?Are you compensating the gap between the two seals?Otherwise you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motorswhere one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's depthrating.Cheers Alan

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On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

Greg,Good points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil filling.  I have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors for Elementary.  One seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps the water out.  I am confident this in addition to the compensation system will make for a clean leak proof set up.  The ice is off the lake by my house, so my test lake should be open in a week or so.  I will know then if my idea works.Hank 

    On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 7:03 AM, james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> wrote:

 I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for compensating things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and rubber to harden and become brittle.Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil compensation in general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very visible oil slick around your sub (not good). Most guys are using trolling motors and they're not really tight enough to hold thin oil without leaks.Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it actually worked really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also been using air compensation for a long time without problems.
It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small bottle of air lasts for many dives.
Greg C

      From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg> 
 Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:55 PM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40

On a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil. 
On motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that. Mineral oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little untight.    -----Original-Nachricht-----Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>   Hi Carsten,                         I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on fire.  It's not as flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have improved it's non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat flammable however. I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors. Brian 

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.or g wrote:

From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)

Heat Vapor is may a problem with WD40. May ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that.. 
We change to silicon oil for that reason.  vbr Carsten    -----Original-Nachricht-----Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>An: "PSubs" <personal_submersibles at psubs.o rg>   I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed to be very happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build up out of the motor.  I was surprised how sealed the motor was, it is open at one end where it mates to the gear box.  I was able to fill it up without it leaking out anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I want the mineral oil to fill all the voids.  I might need to actually drill some holes to get some circulation .   Brian ______________________________ _________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.or g http://www.psubs.org/mailman/l istinfo.cgi/personal_submersib les______________________________ _________________
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