[PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?

Sat Apr 15 16:40:23 EDT 2017

I use a lot of the new ones - the ASCO "Next Generation" Red Hat valves with 24 VDC coils. The electrical characteristics are excellent, and they perform well in any position. I just use the standard enclosures, but you can get them in NEMA 4X. Don't know how these would take to submerged / compensated use, but they would be pretty easy to modify for that purpose. The housings come with an integral 1/2 NPTF for a conduit fitting - you could easily install a Swagelok tube fitting instead for dielectric oil compensation. ASCO does make a line of solenoid valves for naval / marine use, but these have only the basic coil electronics and a plastic housing that makes them submersible to fifteen feet. Not the ideal coils for battery power though. If I could modify the housing and / or compensate to make them work, I'd be more inclined to use the Next Gen Red Hats.

Sean

On April 15, 2017 12:03:36 PM MDT, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>I used the red hat valves on my ROV, they are very good quality, but I
>doubt they are air tight.   
>
>On Saturday, April 15, 2017 11:36 AM, Alec Smyth via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
>
>There are some Red Hat solenoid valves that are advertised as
>submersible to 15 feet and have the wires coming out an NPT port, so
>those could be compensated easily. But they cost a bit more than the
>air suspension ones.
>On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 1:27 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>Alec,The valves are not air tight, the coil sits in the water.  It
>comes down to cost really. Sean has a nice idea but your looking
>at thousands.  An oil bath valve bank will cost  around 500 dollars to
>set up.  In my mind both will work, I am making an oil bath valve bank
>for Elementary just because I don't know if it might go in salt water.
>  We are happy to fill our  motors with oil, why not electro magnets.
>Greg,There are tons of air suspension valves  on Ebay with  switch
>panels even.   I would go with the Valve bank type if your going to oil
>bath it.
> 
>
>On Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:44 AM, james cottrell via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:
> 
>
> Hank,Where to get the valves? Thanks, Greg.
>
>From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs. org>
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs. org> 
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?
>  
>Alec,If you want simple, look at electric solenoid valves for venting
>the tanks.  You can buy 8 valves for 100 dollars.  You can plumb the
>tanks together to create 4 zones or you can install one valve directly
>to each tank (12)   The beauty of using more valves is safety.  If one
>fails, no big issue.  You can wire 3 valves together so only need a 5
>wire penetrator.  The nice thing about this idea is it is cheap to
>experiment with and no modification to the tanks or sub.  you will need
>check valves on the air feed lines so the tanks are not connected.  No
>point in venting one zone if it can send or receive air to another
>zone.  If you are reluctant to use unprotected valves in fresh water, I
>can say the ones we used on our log salvage ROV never once gave us a
>problem in two years of operation.  I am talking many thousands of
>dives, actually one dive every 7 minutes.  If your in salt water then
>you may want to go with an electric valve bank with four valves where
>the valve bank is in an oil tank with a bladder mounted behind the CT.
>  That is how my hydraulic valve works for my new manipulator.  It is
>fast and easy to set up, and is what I will do for Elementary.  In the
>mean time you can use cheap valves to figure it all out.  Your entire
>fix (experiment) can be under 200 dollars, then go to oil bath
>solenoids.Hank 
>
>On Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:12 AM, Alec Smyth via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote:
> 
>
> Hi all,
>I'm mulling over options for re-plumbing Shackleton's MBTs. I can go
>with re-positioned tubing or remotely actuated valves. In principle the
>tubing is easier, but I'm trying to think through all possibilities
>before deciding, and just thought of a new option. There's six tanks
>per side, and the tanks are small so it would be a challenge to put a
>mushroom valve inside each tank. Besides, that would be a dozen valves.
>However, I could also do just two valves per side, mounted outside and
>above the tanks, with very short hoses or tubes leading from three
>tanks to each valve. There is space, and because the valves would be
>outside the tanks I have a lot more freedom for the size or geometry of
>the valves. Maybe even normal ball valves actuated by a little air
>cylinder. This system would allow for fore-aft and side-to-side
>control, and would be highly resistant to list-induced water blocking. 
>Anyone have thoughts on the KISSest way to control valves? For example,
>something that could work with unregulated 3K psi air?
>
>Thanks,
>Alec
>
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