[PSUBS-MAILIST] actuated valves?

hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Apr 15 10:38:12 EDT 2017


Alec,If you want simple, look at electric solenoid valves for venting the tanks.  You can buy 8 valves for 100 dollars.  You can plumb the tanks together to create 4 zones or you can install one valve directly to each tank (12)   The beauty of using more valves is safety.  If one fails, no big issue.  You can wire 3 valves together so only need a 5 wire penetrator.  The nice thing about this idea is it is cheap to experiment with and no modification to the tanks or sub.  you will need check valves on the air feed lines so the tanks are not connected.  No point in venting one zone if it can send or receive air to another zone.  If you are reluctant to use unprotected valves in fresh water, I can say the ones we used on our log salvage ROV never once gave us a problem in two years of operation.  I am talking many thousands of dives, actually one dive every 7 minutes.  If your in salt water then you may want to go with an electric valve bank with four valves where the valve bank is in an oil tank with a bladder mounted behind the CT.   That is how my hydraulic valve works for my new manipulator.  It is fast and easy to set up, and is what I will do for Elementary.  In the mean time you can use cheap valves to figure it all out.  Your entire fix (experiment) can be under 200 dollars, then go to oil bath solenoids.Hank 

    On Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:12 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
 

 Hi all,
I'm mulling over options for re-plumbing Shackleton's MBTs. I can go with re-positioned tubing or remotely actuated valves. In principle the tubing is easier, but I'm trying to think through all possibilities before deciding, and just thought of a new option. There's six tanks per side, and the tanks are small so it would be a challenge to put a mushroom valve inside each tank. Besides, that would be a dozen valves. However, I could also do just two valves per side, mounted outside and above the tanks, with very short hoses or tubes leading from three tanks to each valve. There is space, and because the valves would be outside the tanks I have a lot more freedom for the size or geometry of the valves. Maybe even normal ball valves actuated by a little air cylinder. This system would allow for fore-aft and side-to-side control, and would be highly resistant to list-induced water blocking. 
Anyone have thoughts on the KISSest way to control valves? For example, something that could work with unregulated 3K psi air?

Thanks,
Alec

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