[PSUBS-MAILIST] PWM

Alan via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Apr 6 21:11:06 EDT 2017 

Alec,
I would have thought the housing would have expanded away
from the lens. Unless it expanded against the bolts & tightened
the top plate down on to the glass. If that was the case maybe
the lense is a fraction too high ( or it's seat isn't low enough).
Maybe a stone from a car?
Alan


Sent from my iPad

> On 7/04/2017, at 12:23 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Ugh! I think Cliff's design has pretty good heat dissipation. The only problem I did have is that one of the lights showed up with a cracked lens, and that was before I turned it on for the first time. I did a show and tell with the sub yesterday at a university and left the sub parked outside for some hours in the sun. Maybe the black light body expanded in the sun, I'm not sure. Anyway, I'll put another lens in and tighten it a bit less, and if it happens again I suppose I'll have to slightly enlarge the cavity. 
> 
> Looking to test Shackleton next Thursday in a quarry... fingers crossed.
> 
> 
> Best,
> 
> Alec
> 
>> On Thu, Apr 6, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> Glad it is going well Alec.
>> I have a couple of the units shown in the video.
>> Have watched a few of Julians videos, he is really good.
>> Here is one specifically on your model if you haven't seen it already.
>> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-fii6G_ewdw
>> That is typical getting it with no instructions!
>>    I am having a bad run with my light. Was just about there with it, then
>> measured the heat coming off the front of the LED from 10mm away.
>> At 76W I was getting to 270F (132C) after 10 seconds. These lights are
>> touted as being cool out front. I don't want to send my acrylic lens to
>> forming temperature & have it extrude at pressure. Am awaiting a
>> reply about this from the manufacturer. Meanwhile I have put on hold
>> the PWM driver I was having designed for me.
>>   Just now I managed to destroy another driver & I am not sure how.
>> I have a 48V bench top power supply with a resistor to stop inrush current,
>> but I think I have still destroyed the input capacitor. 
>> I was told not to switch the LED off from the output lead (which I had been doing)
>> as it could be bad for the constant current circuit. So had been switching
>> on & off my power supply.
>> I saw Cliff's light on one of his Youtube videos & it looked pretty impressive.
>> Alan
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On 7/04/2017, at 11:17 AM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi guys, just a quick update. I received the LED drivers and just spent an hour or so playing with them. Everything worked like a charm so tomorrow they go into Shackleton. I was particularly pleased because running them in air for a minute or so, both the lights and drives were still cool to the touch. I was running two 5K lights off a shared drive, which I set at 34.1V and 2.34A per the LED specs. That's 80 watts, and this is a 400 watt drive so I guess that's how one ends up with cool circuitry. This is not going to need a fan on its enclosure, just holes. My drive is a "MingHe D3806." 
>>> 
>>> The drives came with no instructions whatsoever but there were reasonable explanations online. Here is a video that will give you a pretty clear idea of how they are configured. The video is of another model from the same manufacturer, but the controls are identical. Mine is a combination step up / step down, which has the benefit of more input voltage flexibility but is less efficient.
>>> 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_KjmF1iI9w&t=201s
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Best,
>>> 
>>> Alec
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 7:24 AM, via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>> Rick,
>>>> He was referring to a Pulse Width Modulator to adjust the amount of power going to the lights.
>>>> Jim
>>>>  
>>>> In a message dated 3/29/2017 11:29:44 P.M. Central Daylight Time, personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:
>>>> Alec,
>>>> 
>>>> I just met a guy in California that made his own underwater housing and LED lighting system for doing video and he is using an LED board that is about 3" square. He has built a PWM for it so he can dim it down and says it's a 10,000 luman 100 watt system that runs on 32 volts.
>>>>  I don't know what a PWM is but he said that I didn't necessarily have to have one. I can step my thruster motor supply down from 36V but one of my concerns is how to get rid of the heat. He didn't seem to be too forthcoming with the system he built. I think the LED array was something like $15 each on Amazon. How are you controlling the heat in your housings and do you think I would need a PWM for my lite?
>>>> 
>>>> Rick
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 3:34 PM, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>> My lights are done, I put them on Shackleton earlier today and they are wired through the hull with penetrators. However, the wires end inside the hull because I'm waiting for the drives to arrive, which will be installed inside the sub. I was able to test them with a lab type power supply on a table top, and must say these Bridgelux leds are like a little sun in a can, I love them. These two lights I made are 5K lumens, and I already have 10K lumen Bridgeluxes which I bought by mistake. So I'll test these, and probably make another set with those more powerful ones. If I do, the 10Ks will be the forward lights and the 5Ks will be oriented out to the sides for "peripheral vision". A dimmable driver is sounding like a good idea, or maybe just sunglasses!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Best,
>>>>> 
>>>>> Alec
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 9:10 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>> Thanks Hank,
>>>>>> Alec has been making good progress with Cliff's light.
>>>>>> Last I heard 2 housings were being anodised.
>>>>>> Any update Cliff / Alec ?
>>>>>> Alan
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> You will be our go to guy for lighting!
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Still building lights Hank,
>>>>>>> have built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision &
>>>>>>> hopefully this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's going.
>>>>>>> Am getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.
>>>>>>> Got off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one of
>>>>>>> the lights for his boat. 😐
>>>>>>> Alan
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Alan,
>>>>>>>> Are you back to work on your motor?   or are you still building lights?
>>>>>>>> Hank
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Thanks' Greg
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Alan, my answer is who cares if some water gets between the seals.  The important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the motor starts up at the surface, there is significant centrical force that pushes the oil out with the seal in its original orientation.  I should actually remove one of the seals and just have one seal holding oil in, just like a submersible well pump has.  Those pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said all this, I could be wrong ;-)   Stay tuned for test results.
>>>>>>>> Hank
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> How are you doing that Hank?
>>>>>>>> Are you compensating the gap between the two seals?
>>>>>>>> Otherwise you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motors
>>>>>>>> where one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's depth
>>>>>>>> rating.
>>>>>>>> Cheers Alan
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Greg,
>>>>>>>>> Good points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil filling.  I have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors for Elementary.  One seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps the water out.  I am confident this in addition to the compensation system will make for a clean leak proof set up.  The ice is off the lake by my house, so my test lake should be open in a week or so.  I will know then if my idea works.
>>>>>>>>> Hank
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 7:03 AM, james cottrell via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for compensating things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and rubber to harden and become brittle.
>>>>>>>>> Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil compensation in general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very visible oil slick around your sub (not good). Most guys are using trolling motors and they're not really tight enough to hold thin oil without leaks.
>>>>>>>>> Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it actually worked really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also been using air compensation for a long time without problems.
>>>>>>>>> It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small bottle of air lasts for many dives.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Greg C
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>>>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:55 PM
>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil. 
>>>>>>> On motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that.
>>>>>>> Mineral oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little untight.
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>>>>>> Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>>>>> Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200
>>>>>>> Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>> An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> Hi Carsten, 
>>>>>>>                         I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on fire.  It's not as flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have improved it's non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat flammable however. 
>>>>>>> I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors.
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> Brian
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>>>>> Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Heat Vapor is may a problem with WD40.
>>>>>>> May ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that.. 
>>>>>>> We change to silicon oil for that reason.
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> vbr Carsten
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>>>>>> Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
>>>>>>> Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200
>>>>>>> Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>> An: "PSubs" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed to be very happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build up out of the motor.  I was surprised how sealed the motor was, it is open at one end where it mates to the gear box.  I was able to fill it up without it leaking out anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I want the mineral oil to fill all the voids.  I might need to actually drill some holes to get some circulation . 
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> Brian 
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
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