[PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru

[Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles]

Apparently I am not able to post directly to the group so I'll have to
piggyback this thread with a couple of questions for now until I can figure
out what's going on.

I am ready to start compensating my Minn-Kota motors and as I understand it
from the group, a bladder and or tubing is needed to allow for expansion of
the oil when it gets hot. Was wondering if this was based on theory or did
someone in the past not do the tubing and have the O ring spit out? I
wouldn't think that the tubing would be flexible enough to allow for
expansion. I had copied a post of someone who had done it awhile back and
they had said that they had drilled a 1/8" hole in the motor housing which
seems quite small and was wondering if 1/4" might be better??
also,
*For those using Minn-Kota motors, what are you using for a prop tip to
hull distance?
* The length of rod that protrudes inside the hull ( thruster handle )
* Could I use something like a Schedule 80 ss pipe instead of solid ss
round stock boarded out to accept the wires from the thruster?
* What size copper rod should I use to equal 10 gauge wire to carry the
power from the thruster to inside the sub?
Thanks guys

Rick

On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 4:17 PM, Rick Patton <rick at landnseawelding.com>
wrote:

> Amazing as I though that that is what they would charge just to do the cut.
>
> Rick
>
> On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 3:44 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> most likely 6061 which is fine.
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>
>> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o
>> rg>
>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru
>> Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 20:34:14 +0000 (UTC)
>>
>> Brian,
>> Man that is cheap, are you sure it is a good grade.  I want to build subs
>> in California!
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 2, 2016 12:26 PM, Brian Cox via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hank,           $30 for a 6 1/2" dia  x 1 1/2" thick   .  one reason is I
>> wanted to put a O ring around the edge for extra sealing capability.
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>>
>> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.o
>> rg>
>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] electrical pass-thru
>> Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 09:03:12 +0000 (UTC)
>>
>> Brian,
>> I meant to say,, I got a 1 inch thick Aluminum pen plate that came with
>> Gamma.
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 8:50 PM, hank pronk via
>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Brian,
>> That is a Sean type question, but I do have a 1 inch thick pen plate that
>> came with Gamma.  Why spend the money on aluminum, just for machining.  I
>> made mine in a flash with 516-70.  I made mine from a cut out from a ring I
>> had cut, 1 inch thick.  You could have it water jet cut, then you just have
>> to face it.
>> Hank
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 8:25 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hank,    I'm planning on running my electrical power and control through
>> one of my viewports .  My plan was to remove the window and put a piece in
>> there that would be the same size as the acrylic window( 1 1/2" thick), I
>> was thinking of using a 1 1/2" thick piece of aluminum just because it
>> would be easier to machine.   I might need to have it anodized I guess, but
>> can you think of any reason there would be an issue using aluminum ?
>>
>> Brian
>>
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