[PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass

Wed Jun 8 06:09:34 EDT 2016

I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through into
the hull.

Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through hulls the
single most time consuming part of psubbing.   Difficult to construct and
maintain.

http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm
http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm

Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the through hull
with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the cable.  So you have to
make the cables fit without touching any part of the motor innards.  Some
sort of modification needed im sure.  Plus the motors jam in the through
hull tubes.  Oil compensation is messy and a nuisance.

I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but not
available to us at the moment I don't think.

I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :)

Regards
James

On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating shaft to
> go through the penetrators?
>
> Thank you,
> Scott Waters
>
> >  -------Original Message-------
> >  From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10
> >
> >  I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who have
> >  done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor threw
> >  the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the inside.
> >
> >  Rick
> >
> >  On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
> >  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> >
> >  > Brian,
> >  > something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the glass
> >  > mat that
> >  > you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets tacky
> >  > before applying it.
> >  > Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last coat gets
> >  > tacky & add some more
> >  > glass cloth.
> >  > You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is twice
> >  > the cost of the polyester.
> >  > Alan
> >  >
> >  > -------------------------
> >  > FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles
> >  > <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  > TO: PSubs <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> >  > SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM
> >  > SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass
> >  >
> >  > Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside down
> >  > fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the adhesion
> >  > that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I didn't
> >  > get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something else next
> >  > time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside, soak the
> >  > fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with a
> >  > plastic mold release barrier.
> >  >
> >  > Brian
> >  > _______________________________________________
> >  > Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> >  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >  >
> >  > _______________________________________________
> >  > Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> >  > Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> >  > http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
> >
> >
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>
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