[PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status

Sun Jul 3 10:24:00 EDT 2016

Ok, good luck. As said you can always back off the power if
it gets too hot.
Alan

Sent from my iPad

> On 4/07/2016, at 1:20 am, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> 
> Alan, if you look at most but not all commercial underwater LEDs, they have the LED driver integrated in the LED body.  There are plus and minuses of internal vs external housing of the driver.  On my existing, 5K LED external lights, the LED driver is self-contained and I have had no problem with heat.  In fact you can run the LEDs outside of the water indefinitely with natural convection keeping the unit from overheating. The housing design I am using has a thick aluminum barrier between the LED array and the electronics. This barrier gives a direct pathway for heat to dissipate to the housing/fins.  Also will keep an air gap between the barrier and the driver.  From a maintenance and repair respective, it is nice to be able to in the field  either swap out to a spare LED light unit or  easily unplug an external light, pop the back off the pod and switch out the driver or LED and get back in action.
> 
> As my dad is fond of telling me, there are lots of ways to skin a cat!
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:26 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> Cliff,
>> I just had another look at the Bridgelux Vero 29.
>> It is a similar size to the 40-80W leds I have been buying, but has the round
>> format rather than my square ones, & should put out a more even light pattern.
>> Also there is a pdf with a lot of information, whereas I don't have that with mine.
>> With that information you would be able to back off the voltage & current if it gets too
>> hot, to a known quantity.
>> There is this plug in unit for them if you don't want to use the solder tabs
>> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=picoezmate_harness_for_integrated_led_arrays&channel=PRODUCTS&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction
>> Also of interest is this glass lens that should be fairly pressure resistant.
>> https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/kinglux-78mm-120degree-glass-lens-for_60393368138.html?spm=a2700.7724857.0.0.ACLywl
>> However I have been Googling & not come up with anything off the shelf for driving individual leds.
>> Perhaps this is a question that should be directed to Bridgelux! Let me know if you find anything.
>> There are drivers available for driving 2 or 3 lights simultaneously, & these lights seem popular
>> for growing marijuana. Did you say you were mounting these on the inside or outside of your hull?
>> You could always use the square 80W emitters that operate off 32-36V in your housing design.
>> As I have said before, I can't see any point in trying to put the driver in the back of the light housing
>> as these drivers have heat sinks themselves, & the added heat from the led would cook them.
>> Also you could dissipate the heat from the driver straight out the back without the electronics in the way.
>> Cheers Alan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
>> Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 3:05 PM
>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status
>> 
>> Alan/ALec, ran across this small DC-DC boost converter for $4 on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/222115591904?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.  This is not an LED driver as it does nothing but boost the voltage but for those that want to use this 10K Bridgelux LED array on a 24VDC buss, it should work.  
>> 
>> Modules nature: Non-isolated step-up (Boost)
>> Rectification: Non-synchronous rectification
>> Input voltage: 3.5V-35V
>> Output voltage: 5V-56V (Must ensure that set the output voltage is higher than the input voltage)
>> Input current: 3A (max), Rated current:2A
>> Conversion efficiency: 90%
>> Dimension: 43mm(1.69")*30mm(1.18")*12mm(.47") (about the size of two postage stamps)
>> 
>> This dimension would easily fit in the 1 atm enclosure I designed and in fact, we may be able to shrink the enclosure even more. I have ordered some to play around with along with the Bridgelux LED http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=976-1277-ND
>> 
>> To use this on my boat, I would have to rewire my HV box to feed the exterior lights of the regulated 24VDC buss rather than the unregulated 36VDC battery bank but this would be easy.
>> 
>>  Would be better to get a proper LED driver but this might do until someone sources a small LED driver that fit the spec Ken developed.
>> 
>> 
>> Cliff
>> 
>> On Sat, Jul 2, 2016 at 3:05 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> Cliff,
>> what voltage are you running on your sub?
>> You can generally run these leds at a lower voltage & it is 
>> beneficial to them. If you have a bench top power supply that goes to 36V, you can
>> slowly power up the led without a driver & check if it is bright enough at 36V. Don't
>> do this for more than a second or so or you may destroy the led. I am having a 48V 
>> system, but the choices in electronics that are compatible, dramatically drops over a 36V system.
>> I have looked at just about every off the shelf led dc driver on the planet.
>> cheers Alan
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On 3/07/2016, at 7:03 am, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This LED driver will not work for the 10K lumen Bridgelux LED as it needs 38V forward voltage , 2.1 amps and 80W.  This driver can only get up to 36V.
>>> 
>>> Cliff
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 11:39 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>> Alec,
>>> I have been working on a light housing. Have attached a dwg but it is not finalized.
>>> I would have had it completed but have been waiting a Month on a replacement motor
>>> for my lathe :(
>>> I am using a square 50W LED, but you can get 60 & 80W LEDs the same size.
>>> I am NOT putting the driver in the light housing, it ends up sitting at the back of the LED
>>> where there is a massive amount of heat generated from these high power LEDs.
>>> Keeping the driver in the hull makes it easy to change out if it fails.
>>> I am going with an acrylic lens & oil compensated. I would have liked a borosilicate pressure
>>> resistant lens but it was going to cost $100-+. Also if there is a leak with a pressure resistant
>>> housing, electrolysis can pressurize it with hydrogen gas.
>>> I am not using a reflector as they don't seem to do anything with these big LEDs. They are really
>>> rows of little 1W LEDs,10X6 for a 60W. So you get light being emitted from either side of the inch
>>> wide emitter, that is hard to control, especially when you are wanting an  80 degree wide angled
>>> flood light.
>>> My design also revolves around local stock aluminum tube sizes.
>>> The LEDs are around 30 to 36V. I am using these as drivers. $4.64 US, not bad.
>>> Alan
>>> Constant Voltage Constant Current DC-DC Power Module for Arduino
>>> 
>>> 
>>> $ 4.64	
>>> Constant Voltage Constant Current DC-DC Power Module for Arduino
>>> I like this from DX. Find the cool gadgets at a incredibly low price with worldwide free shipping here.
>>> 
>>> From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 1:41 PM
>>> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status
>>> 
>>> Hi gents,
>>> 
>>> I have an almost-ready sub but no lights, so was wondering whether to make them per the PSUBS-designed model in the community projects section of the website. I'm in awe of those drawings! However, they show a printed wiring board that is a placeholder for a part still to be designed. I was wondering if that might have happened, or if there might be an ETA?  
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Alec
>>> 
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