[PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status

Sat Jul 2 16:42:44 EDT 2016

Cliff,here is a video revue of a 40V buck converter constant currant driver.This isn't the video I was looking for. He has one that covers most ofthe available options for driving high power leds, but I'm heading out& he has a lot of videos.AlanReview: 3A 40V Digital Buck DC/DC Converter - It's more like a Bench PSU!

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Review: 3A 40V Digital Buck DC/DC Converter - It's more like a Bench PSU!
 This digitally controlled buck converter is so stacked with features, it's more like a miniature bench power...  |   |

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      From: Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 8:05 AM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status

Cliff,what voltage are you running on your sub?You can generally run these leds at a lower voltage & it is beneficial to them. If you have a bench top power supply that goes to 36V, you canslowly power up the led without a driver & check if it is bright enough at 36V. Don'tdo this for more than a second or so or you may destroy the led. I am having a 48V system, but the choices in electronics that are compatible, dramatically drops over a 36V system.I have looked at just about every off the shelf led dc driver on the planet.cheers Alan

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On 3/07/2016, at 7:03 am, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

This LED driver will not work for the 10K lumen Bridgelux LED as it needs 38V forward voltage , 2.1 amps and 80W.  This driver can only get up to 36V.
Cliff
On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 11:39 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Alec,I have been working on a light housing. Have attached a dwg but it is not finalized.I would have had it completed but have been waiting a Month on a replacement motorfor my lathe :(I am using a square 50W LED, but you can get 60 & 80W LEDs the same size.I am NOT putting the driver in the light housing, it ends up sitting at the back of the LEDwhere there is a massive amount of heat generated from these high power LEDs.Keeping the driver in the hull makes it easy to change out if it fails. I am going with an acrylic lens & oil compensated. I would have liked a borosilicate pressureresistant lens but it was going to cost $100-+. Also if there is a leak with a pressure resistanthousing, electrolysis can pressurize it with hydrogen gas.I am not using a reflector as they don't seem to do anything with these big LEDs. They are reallyrows of little 1W LEDs,10X6 for a 60W. So you get light being emitted from either side of the inchwide emitter, that is hard to control, especially when you are wanting an  80 degree wide angledflood light.My design also revolves around local stock aluminum tube sizes.The LEDs are around 30 to 36V. I am using these as drivers. $4.64 US, not bad.AlanConstant Voltage Constant Current DC-DC Power Module for Arduino

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Constant Voltage Constant Current DC-DC Power Module for Arduino
 I like this from DX. Find the cool gadgets at a incredibly low price with worldwide free shipping here.  |   |

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      From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 1:41 PM
 Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] PSUBS light project status

Hi gents,
I have an almost-ready sub but no lights, so was wondering whether to make them per the PSUBS-designed model in the community projects section of the website. I'm in awe of those drawings! However, they show a printed wiring board that is a placeholder for a part still to be designed. I was wondering if that might have happened, or if there might be an ETA?  
Thanks,
Alec
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