[PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense

Wed Sep 2 23:25:22 EDT 2015

OK Cliff;I am making up a 36V 60W light with the LED driver in the hull.Thanks Hank for the suggestion.I can still try out Ken's driver, along with the driver I have, & the others I have on order.I am thinking of just glueing a lense on to the light housing. This will reduce theprofile & save a lot of work machining screw holes, o-ring grooves & a clamping plate.Have run my 60W emitter for a couple of hours & it isn't getting exsessively hot out the frontso am looking at the acrylic lense option that I previously thought may not be too good.If I want to re-use the housing, should the emitter fail, I can mill out the acrylic lense.Or just throw away.Alan

      From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2015 11:43 AM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense

I am with Ken on this.  The spec is written and that is what we have been designing to.   I think having a second enclosure in the pressure hull to hold most of the electronics would work and you could run multiple lights off this hub.  Deep Sea Power and Light have an LED option like this.  Having said that, for this first light, I think we should stick with the spec and design a self contained 10K light.  Nothing prevents anyone from taking the electronics design that Ken comes up with and the housing that I develop and morph these in one way or another to fit their need.  
Cliff

On Wed, Sep 2, 2015 at 5:54 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Putting the driver in the hull is certainly feasible and has appeal but that requires a change in our spec and Cliff needs to wade into this. That’s why we wrote the spec. not as a cast in concrete but what most of the PSubs wanted (maybe). Bear in mind the driver will still need a small heat sink to dissipate about 11 or 12 watts and that makes the light into two parts. We certainly need the LEDs to be cooled by the water. Ken From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 6:07 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense Ken,it may be worth looking at whether we design this light with the driver in the hull.I have covered this in another email, but additionally, the commercial standinglamp I saw, that was using the latest 100W LED array had alluminium heat sinksabout 3" long & about 10 of them, out the back. So heat will be a big problem.If we keep the driver in the hull it won't get cooked, & we can heat sink the emitterstraight to the back of the housing where it will be cooled by water.Alan  From: Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion' <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2015 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense Alan, Usually if the driver is a true current source the extra wire doesn’t make much difference (within reason). Also most drivers filter the switching waveform so the current to the LED is mostly a dc tern with a very low AC component. Take a look at the design we have on the forum tomorrow late to see what the present design is. Ken      From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2015 8:49 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense Hank, that's a good question for Ken.As I understand it, the LED drivers have a switching frequency so are turning on & offthe power to the LED. When electricity runs through wire it creates a magnetic field &when the power is switched off, the magnetic field collapses & causes a surge of electricity.Like a coil in a car creating a spark across a spark plug. The LED doesn't like this. The longer the run of wire, the more inductance is created. The capacitor is a buffer for this& there are big ones on high power LED drivers. They are there to combat the inductance from the battery to the driver, but by lengthening the wiring from driver to LED you create the problem out the other side. Perhaps a capacitor could be placed in the light fitting, & thedriver in the pressure hull. This would reduce the footprint inside the fitting & stop the rest of the electronics from being exposed to any heat build up. you would still have the problemof pressure on the capacitor if you compensated though. Have seen pressure resistantcapacitors, but don't know enough about them.I will go & see a friend who is an expert on this.Alan
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On 1/09/2015, at 11:20 am, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Alan,vWhy can't the driver stay inside the submarine, why put it in the housing?Hank  On Monday, August 31, 2015 4:55 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: Hank,you have got me thinking. I don't want to pressure compensate because of the capacitorsin the driver. I was also concerned that any fluid might yellow with the heat.According to this article, the main problem with LED lights is disipating the heat that comesout the back of the emmitter.http://www.deepsea.com/wp-content/uploads/article-Application-of-High-Power-LEDs-UI08.pdfI could seal off the driver compartment at the back of the emmitter & fill that with oil. HoweverI will be machining this out of alluminium rod & can keep the enclosure round the driver pretty smallso there isn't much of an air gap to the housing.Could easily experiment with & without oil to see if it makes much difference.Alan  From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2015 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Light lense Alan,I assume your going with a pressure housing?  why not fill the pressure housing 95% full of oil to tsf the heat to the water?Hank   On Monday, August 31, 2015 4:00 PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote: Sorry part 2 ( ipad & big fingers)The LED cost $11- & the driver $6-.  Free delivery.I have ordered a number of reflectors for a couple of dollars each.The driver is quite small. With the automated assembly processes& micro sized components, you can't get anywhere near this sizesoldering on the components yourself.Because of the heat factor I am limiting myself to the 6000lm LED.Will be looking at the beam angle I get from these reflectors & available glass lenses, before making up a housing. Looking for a borosilicate lensebecause of the heat transfer & low expansion.I have taken a different route from Ken, but this process he started hasbeen very helpful & motivating, as has been the discussion & informationthat has come out. Alan

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On 1/09/2015, at 9:42 am, Alan <alanlindsayjames at yahoo.com> wrote:I bought a 24-36V 6000 lm & 4000 lm LED array along with drivers, & have another lot in the post.The driv

Sent from my iPad
On 1/09/2015, at 4:09 am, Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Ken is in Ireland on a holiday but before he left, he had finished the design of the LED Driver power stage.  Still working on the housing but have been sidetracked the last month on getting my boat ready to dive after major upgraded over the last 18 months. Hope to get back on the Light housing shortly.  I did dive the new 5K LED light this weekend and it worked great. Cliff On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 8:09 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

What has happened with the light build?
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