[PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?

James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Thu Jun 18 04:58:18 EDT 2015


Hi Alec\Brian,

Yes, maybe it would push in.  A flat step would probably be better like you
say.  But maybe im over thinking it as usual.  Probably not required.

Brian, I used the 5\8ths bar because that's what was specified on the
plans.  However, its also convenient for using a 16mm reamer for the bore.

regards
James


On 18 June 2015 at 03:04, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Oh cool !   Thanks Alec !    I owe you much over the years !
>
> Brian
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56 -0400
>
> Hi Brian,
>
> I tend to use quite thick through-hulls because its easier for me to
> machine the O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my case
> its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you have the tooling to
> put the grooves in the insert, half an inch is fine for many applications.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
> On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Alec, James,  I'm using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most all
> of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) ,  I noticed in the example
> it was a 5/8" rod,  Why such a heavy duty thickness?  Was that for a
> particular function?
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400
>
> Hi James,
>
> I think with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is
> neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper.
> On the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail
> catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've
> seen.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
> On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Seeing as its a bit quite I thought I would show this idea.  Its super
> simple....
>
> I have been thinking how you could stop a leaking through hull.  Thinking
> of K boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans.
>
> I believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a faulty O
> ring?
>
> Anyway, here is my idea.  It would take a little bit more machining, but
> not much.  Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding part and a
> taper on the top to help push the bar through.  (I did that on mine
> anyway).  The handle is made with a cam type end.
>
> If you get a leak, you can pull the handle up.  The bar would be pulled
> up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully stopping most
> of the leak.  I suppose you could even machine a matching taper into the
> start of the through hull to match?
>
> I suppose the bar could get pushed through and jam on its own.  That's a
> possibility.
>
> Pic attached.
>
> Kind Regards
> James
>
>
>>
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