[PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?

[Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles]

Hi Brian,

I tend to use quite thick through-hulls because its easier for me to
machine the O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my case
its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you have the tooling to
put the grooves in the insert, half an inch is fine for many applications.

Best,

Alec

On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Alec, James,  I'm using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most all
> of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) ,  I noticed in the example
> it was a 5/8" rod,  Why such a heavy duty thickness?  Was that for a
> particular function?
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?
> Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400
>
> Hi James,
>
> I think with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is
> neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper.
> On the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail
> catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've
> seen.
>
> Best,
>
> Alec
>
> On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> Seeing as its a bit quite I thought I would show this idea.  Its super
> simple....
>
> I have been thinking how you could stop a leaking through hull.  Thinking
> of K boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans.
>
> I believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a faulty O
> ring?
>
> Anyway, here is my idea.  It would take a little bit more machining, but
> not much.  Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding part and a
> taper on the top to help push the bar through.  (I did that on mine
> anyway).  The handle is made with a cam type end.
>
> If you get a leak, you can pull the handle up.  The bar would be pulled
> up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully stopping most
> of the leak.  I suppose you could even machine a matching taper into the
> start of the through hull to match?
>
> I suppose the bar could get pushed through and jam on its own.  That's a
> possibility.
>
> Pic attached.
>
> Kind Regards
> James
>
>
> ​
>
> _______________________________________________
> Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>
>
> --089e01183c9e6a94500518ba817f--_______________________________________________
> Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> <http:///eonapps/ft/wm/page/compose?send_to=Personal_Submersibles%40psubs.org>
> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>
> _______________________________________________
> Personal_Submersibles mailing list
> Personal_Submersibles at psubs.org
> http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://www.whoweb.com/pipermail/personal_submersibles/attachments/20150617/40f9faed/attachment-0001.html>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: jammer.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 34930 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://www.whoweb.com/pipermail/personal_submersibles/attachments/20150617/40f9faed/attachment-0001.jpg>