[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Mon Jul 27 22:42:28 EDT 2015

Hi David,on Googling it seems you need an intergrating sphere to measure lumensif you don't want to convert from lux. They are expensive.   I ran my 1000 lumen flood lamp without the lense in place, & you couldn't touchthe housing for 1/2 a second after 5 minutes use. Goodness knows how hot a10,000lm unit will get with the lense on! I ran it off a bench top power supplystraight on to the emitter, so bypassed the LED driver. It worked ok for over an hourtill I turned it off.Alan
      From: David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 1:37 PM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Hi Alan,
I am using the 120vac to 36vdc transformers that came with the LEDs when I ordered them to test. I have not tore one apart to see whats inside. All I know is that the LEDS heat up pretty rapidly in air, then start smoke  and then start to turn on and off. If I let it go very long, the off period becomes longer. The interesting thing, is that I don't seem to loose any of the leds in the array when this happens, Though I don't wait very long to have a thermal melt down. When my housing is completed, I plan on using longer leads then currently exist on the transformer, and will be measuring voltage drop and amp draws when in the water cooled tank. The challenge I am  having right now is is trying to figure out how to accurately measure the lumens. The ap on my cell phone will do lux, but the math seems wrong on the conversion. Especially when I test between incandescent and the leds.  

Best Regards,
David Colombo

804 College Ave
Santa Rosa, CA. 95404
(707) 536-1424
www.SeaQuestor.com

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015 at 12:53 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

David,do you have some sort of thermostat in the driver or are you that makes it blink.or are you simply using resistors? Here is the link to the Newtsun, it doesn't say in the specs that it is oil filledbut I remember being told that & it's design indicates that.http://nuytco.com/products/newtsun-100/
Alan
      From: David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 7:33 AM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Hi Alan, one thing that I have observed so far is that without a heat sink, the led will heat up in about 15 seconds and then start to flash on and off. 

On Mon, Jul 27, 2015, 12:29 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

Hi David,you can get really simple with these LEDs & run the emitter straight fromthe power source. The light intensity fluctuates with the heat, but with thelight intensity we are talking about, it might not be noticable. The trick wouldbe picking a voltage low enough so that it didn't get too bright & burn out the emitter when it warmed up. Next step up in simplicity is to just stick a resistor in series, & there arecalculators for this on line. I am wondering if a thermister instead of a resisterwould be a good idea, as this would restrict the current as the unit heated up.It may be a good option for running out of water if the thermister values were right.The beauty of this system would be that you would only have 2 componentsthat you could damage by heating. The down side is a reduction in efficiencyover a buck driver type system.Cheers Alan
      From: Seaquestor via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2015 3:10 AM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

 Hi Cliff, maybe Phil could chime in on his led he demonstrated at his shop for use on the deep workers. It had only a flexible membrane over the oil compensated led housing. I think his design is about as compact as you can get, and I recall it had now fins, but run a voltage up to around 200+ volts. Seems to me that simpler the better, is the idea here. For me I will testing my design hopefully next week. with 4 leds, wired for high and low. Based upon alum cost, machining, leds and  subconscious connector I'm coming in around $500 for each light. Cost may drop with multiple units. But one off is always more expensive.
Best Regards,David Colombo

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Date: 2015/07/26 1:28 PM (GMT-08:00) 
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights 

For anyone that has a large LED or halogens on their boat, can you share your experience on narrow beam vs flood lights.   Building a LED housing to be low profile to fit in a FRP recess is going to be difficult with a reflector to get a narrow beam.  As an example, a typical reflector size for a Vero 29 is 110mm (4.33") diameter and 67mm (2.64") deep.  This is massive and you still need housing and heat sink fins.
I am wonder if we really need a focused light or is a flood light adequate?
Cliff
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