[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Sun Jul 26 08:51:43 EDT 2015

How sensitive are LED drivers to supply voltage stability? If I were to, for example, feed the LED light with 24 VDC that must first pass through a set of electrical slip rings, would any fluctuation in resistance or momentary interruption to the supply harm the light?

Sean

On July 26, 2015 6:38:23 AM MDT, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>Basically that’s the same for this light except it will shut off until
>it cools down, take a look at the spec.
>
> 
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Alan
>James via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 9:21 PM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Thanks for that info Hugh.
>
>This extract from a manual below, is for a 700lm light. So heating as
>you say will be a big issue.
>
>How hard is thermal rollback Ken???.....
>
>General Notes and Warnings The Nano SeaLite can be run in air, but will
>go into thermal rollback, where its light output diminishes to protect
>the light from overheating. This is normal and purposely designed to
>protect the LEDs from being damaged by excess heat buildup while
>running in air. The light will return to full brightness once it is
>submerged in water or it’s allowed to cool down. This thermal rollback
>will not happen when light is being operated in water under normal
>usage. WARNING When the Nano SeaLite is operated in air the body may
>reach temperatures in excess of 65° C. These temperatures may be enough
>to cause burns if the light is handled without protective clothing.
>
>Alan
>
> 
>
>  _____  
>
>From: Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
>Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 12:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>40 degrees gives you 30 degrees
>
>120 degrees gives you 80 degrees
>
>It doesn’t matter whether acrylic, Glass or borosilicate with flat
>planes.
>
>The only reservation on my lights is that I have not done a lens for
>the seawater to optimise angles etc.  Also my reflector is round with a
>square LED.
>
>Looks great in the swimming pool at night but as I haven’t dived it I
>have no experience as to how it will look in the sea.
>
>With a really compact light and 94 watts of heat it is not going to
>last long in the air.  It will need serious fins.  Needs to be idiot
>proof.
>
>One thing is that it needs to have automatic dimming reduction for
>temperature so it does not desolder or destroy O’rings etc.
>
>I will try and work out how the forum works and go to that.  I could
>not get into it but could view it. 
>
>Hugh
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Ken
>Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Sunday, 26 July 2015 11:58 a.m.
>To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>PS We are supposed to be discussing the LED light on the forum?
>
> 
>
>ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Hugh
>Fulton via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 7:33 PM
>To: 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Re- Dimming.
>
>Would it not be better to have 2 switchable intensities rather than
>variable.  Then you can have a 3 position switch.  Is it simpler?
>
>Hugh
>
> 
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of Cliff
>Redus via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Sunday, 26 July 2015 8:20 a.m.
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Yes we did but we had two members that were pushing hard for dimming.
>From feedback, we were two for and two against.   I would prefer not
>have it but if it makes the lite more generally accepted, I am willing
>to incorporate it.  This last version of suggestions are just that,
>suggestions.  A understand that nothing is frozen and we still do not
>have final consensus. 
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 3:13 PM, Ken Martindale via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
>Cliff,
>
> 
>
>Dimming, I thought we deleted this?
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of Cliff
>Redus via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 3:29 PM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Ken, I took you latest pass on spec and generated a one page summary. 
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Ken Martindale via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
>This light will require substantial cooling. Total dissipation is about
>94 watts.
>
> 
>
>Puts out a lot of light. 
>
> 
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of Cliff
>Redus via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 10:18 AM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Alan, my thinking is that with the flange, you could mount the light
>either way.  On the new boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP recess
>so that outside of the flange is flush with the outside of the FRP
>shell.  Would still need to cut a hole were the body passes through the
>FRP shell.  Yes this does reduce the convection heat transfer from the
>light but I was thinking of leaving say a 3/8 clearance around the
>recessed flange.  I don't see any problem with either approach to
>sealing on a MPB by using a neoprene flat gadget.
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
>Cliff,
>
>I was thinking of fitting the light in to a bowl shaped
>
>recess in the fairing / ballast tank, whereas you were proposing
>
>cutting a hole out & fitting it in. In hindsight your idea is better
>
>because my idea would inhibit the heat dispersion due to the fiberglass
>
>surrounding the light fitting.
>
>Alan
>
> 
>
>
>  _____  
>
>
>From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43 AM
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Alan, I am visual kind of guy.  Can send me sketch of what you are
>describing and we can talk.
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
> 
>
>Looks a good solid light Cliff.
>
>On looking at the perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking we
>
>need a back entry for the purposes of mounting in to a housing
>
>in the fairing as you have requested in your list.
>
>I am looking at mounting in to ballast tanks so will create the shape 
>
>of the light in the molding to receive it. If there was a threaded
>
>extension on the back of the light it could slot through a hole & be
>secured
>
>with a nut. This would make it easier to seal off the ballast tanks in
>
>my situation.
>
>Alan
>
> 
>
>
>  _____  
>
>
>From: Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
>Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55 AM
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Ken, if you go to Youtube and do a search on
>https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk, or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED
>light, you will see a short video of the light.
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
> 
>
>Cliff,
>
> 
>
>How do I look at them??
>
> 
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of
>Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Now that Jon has the forum site set up for the LED light project, my
>suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site called out in
>Jon's email.  BTW, I have uploaded to the site the wiring diagram and
>housing drawings for the 5000 Lumen light that was designed by the ME
>students I was mentoring last year.
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
>Doing the dimming electrically is easy but the problem is the extra
>wiring and where do you mount the Potentiometer?
>
> 
>
>We can include the wires in the cable for use as an option this also
>complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would require 4 wires.
>
> 
>
>Personally I also like the dimming since it will extend the time you
>can use it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff would
>like to delete.
>
> 
>
>You guys be sure to keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily
>updates for a while.
>
> 
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of Alan
>James via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Cliff, Ken,
>
>I like the dimming option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light in
>
>some low visibility conditions where there is a lot of back scatter.
>
>The 5,000 lumen option may act like a fog light.
>
>Also I am thinking of having lights mounted to the side which may not
>
>need to be as intense.
>
>Depth rating.... looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light
>housings,
>
>it seems simple to achieve a reasonable depth without much more cost.
>
>Potting the board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case
>some of the
>
>components needed to get rid of a bit of heat.
>
>Mechanical housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of
>the recessed light.
>
>Alan
>
> 
>
>
>  _____  
>
>
>From: Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > 
>Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06 AM
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Ken, good first pass at the specs.  Below are comments.  BTW, I will
>post these here as I have not been able to get the activation code back
>yet on registering at the forum.
>
> 
>
>Item 2.1 DC Voltage.  If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery
>bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC.  When I switch to MK 101 thrusters, I
>dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC my instrumentation bus is
>24VDC.  Would need a single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle
>different nominal voltages.
>
> 
>
>Item 4.0 Depth Requirement.  In the spirit of keeping cost down, I
>think 500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough.  I know Scott is
>designing a deep diving boat but is any one else shooting for more than
>500m?
>
> 
>
>6.0 Dimming.   I would omit the ability to dim the light.  Yes I know
>it is easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go with
>more pins on the subsea connector.  I am thinking on installing
>multiple lighs so I could just control on/off for each light.  I could
>go either way on this but in the spirit of KISS, I vote to omit
>dimming.
>
> 
>
>8.3 Ports  I would change plastic to acrylic.  I don't think we will
>end up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs to size
>the acrylic lens.
>
> 
>
>9.0 Printed Wiring Boards.  I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor
>controller PWBs are potted.  Rather than using the spray on hydrophobic
>coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept for access to fuse). 
>Therefore suggest changing the word coated to potted.
>
> 
>
>11.0 Mechanical Housing.  I suggest.  The LED panel light and PCB shall
>be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted cylindrical housing with
>a low profile that can be recessed in a FRP shell with attachment
>screws from the rear of the flange.  The housing should contain a
>single 29 LED Array rated at 10,000 lumens  with a rated power of 
>91-140 lumens/W (109-71W).  Mounting holes will be provided for an
>optional SS yoke style support bracket.  
>
> 
>
>Material: Hard anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6  TBD (I have a grey beard
>machinist friend that owns a machine shop.  He loves 7071-T6 as it is a
>dream to machine and stronger than 6061-T6.
>
> 
>
>On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via
>Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
> 
>
>Cost is critical. The electronics should be a small part of the cost.
>The housing might be the most expensive.
>
> 
>
>Hope you guys are reading the specification.
>
> 
>
>Ken
>
> 
>
>From: Personal_Submersibles
>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org> ] On Behalf Of
>Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles
>Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> >
>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> 
>
>Jon, thanks for setting up the forum.  I am assuming we can post files
>as well.
>
> 
>
>I agree low cost is important but having a functioning light is as
>well.  OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an option
>unless they can be potted.  To me the best way to keep the cost low, is
>to publish construction drawings of a 1-atm  DIY housing that a psubber
>could machine or have machined by a friend, and publish a design of a
>PCB that could be easily fabricated using  one of the PCB online sites
>like  ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com <http://www.expresspcb.com/>  and
>DIY populate the board.  As a group, we design and build a prototype
>that I can test in my shop. If it works as designed, then we post to
>the psubs site a report, that includes the design drawings, circuit
>diagram, parts list and test results. 
>
> 
>
>Getting a consciences on the design spec is the first step. 
>
> 
>
>Cliff
>
> 
>
>On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles
><personal_submersibles at psubs.org
><mailto:personal_submersibles at psubs.org> > wrote:
>
>
>My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.
>
>One measure of a success for this project will be how many people
>actually build/use it.  If it costs more to manufacture than just
>purchasing something like
>http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
>off the shelf then it's real world application by psubbers may be
>limited.
>
>Over-spec'ing the design above requirements for typical recreational
>operations (ie 10,000 psi capability) is likely going to drive up the
>cost.  Also, let's remember that "cheap", "low cost", and "good price"
>are relative terms for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic
>estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling is required.
>
>Jon
>
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