[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Sat Jul 25 10:17:36 EDT 2015

Alan, my thinking is that with the flange, you could mount the light either
way.  On the new boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP recess so that
outside of the flange is flush with the outside of the FRP shell.  Would
still need to cut a hole were the body passes through the FRP shell.  Yes
this does reduce the convection heat transfer from the light but I was
thinking of leaving say a 3/8 clearance around the recessed flange.  I
don't see any problem with either approach to sealing on a MPB by using a
neoprene flat gadget.

Cliff

On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Cliff,
> I was thinking of fitting the light in to a bowl shaped
> recess in the fairing / ballast tank, whereas you were proposing
> cutting a hole out & fitting it in. In hindsight your idea is better
> because my idea would inhibit the heat dispersion due to the fiberglass
> surrounding the light fitting.
> Alan
>
>   ------------------------------
>  *From:* Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Alan, I am visual kind of guy.  Can send me sketch of what you are
> describing and we can talk.
>
> Cliff
>
> On Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
>
> Looks a good solid light Cliff.
> On looking at the perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking we
> need a back entry for the purposes of mounting in to a housing
> in the fairing as you have requested in your list.
> I am looking at mounting in to ballast tanks so will create the shape
> of the light in the molding to receive it. If there was a threaded
> extension on the back of the light it could slot through a hole & be
> secured
> with a nut. This would make it easier to seal off the ballast tanks in
> my situation.
> Alan
>
>   ------------------------------
>  *From:* Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Ken, if you go to Youtube and do a search on https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk,
> or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED light, you will see a short video of
> the light.
>
> Cliff
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
>
> Cliff,
>
> How do I look at them??
>
> Ken
>
> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Clifford Redus
> via Personal_Submersibles
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 4:18 PM
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Now that Jon has the forum site set up for the LED light project, my
> suggestion is to move the discussion to the forum site called out in Jon's
> email.  BTW, I have uploaded to the site the wiring diagram and housing
> drawings for the 5000 Lumen light that was designed by the ME students I
> was mentoring last year.
>
> Cliff
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Doing the dimming electrically is easy but the problem is the extra wiring
> and where do you mount the Potentiometer?
>
> We can include the wires in the cable for use as an option this also
> complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would require 4 wires.
>
> Personally I also like the dimming since it will extend the time you can
> use it out of the water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff would like to
> delete.
>
> You guys be sure to keep reading the spec. it will have almost daily
> updates for a while.
>
> Ken
>
> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Alan James via
> Personal_Submersibles
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Cliff, Ken,
> I like the dimming option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much light in
> some low visibility conditions where there is a lot of back scatter.
> The 5,000 lumen option may act like a fog light.
> Also I am thinking of having lights mounted to the side which may not
> need to be as intense.
> Depth rating.... looking at the drawings of various 10,000 meter light
> housings,
> it seems simple to achieve a reasonable depth without much more cost.
> Potting the board..... I would be careful about what was potted in case
> some of the
> components needed to get rid of a bit of heat.
> Mechanical housing..... with you on that one Cliff. Like the idea of the
> recessed light.
> Alan
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Clifford Redus via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Ken, good first pass at the specs.  Below are comments.  BTW, I will post
> these here as I have not been able to get the activation code back yet on
> registering at the forum.
>
> Item 2.1 DC Voltage.  If it were me, I would stick with nominal battery
> bank voltages of 24 and 36 VDC.  When I switch to MK 101 thrusters, I
> dropped my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC my instrumentation bus is
> 24VDC.  Would need a single fuse holder to accept fuses to handle different
> nominal voltages.
>
> Item 4.0 Depth Requirement.  In the spirit of keeping cost down, I think
> 500 meters (1640 ft) would be more than enough.  I know Scott is designing
> a deep diving boat but is any one else shooting for more than 500m?
>
> 6.0 Dimming.   I would omit the ability to dim the light.  Yes I know it
> is easy from an electrical point of view but it forces us to go with more
> pins on the subsea connector.  I am thinking on installing multiple lighs
> so I could just control on/off for each light.  I could go either way on
> this but in the spirit of KISS, I vote to omit dimming.
>
> 8.3 Ports  I would change plastic to acrylic.  I don't think we will end
> up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat view port calcs to size the
> acrylic lens.
>
> 9.0 Printed Wiring Boards.  I really like the way the Minn-Kota motor
> controller PWBs are potted.  Rather than using the spray on hydrophobic
> coatings, to me we should pot the board (accept for access to fuse).
> Therefore suggest changing the word coated to potted.
>
> 11.0 Mechanical Housing.  I suggest.  The LED panel light and PCB shall
> be contained in a single 1-atm flange mounted cylindrical housing with a
> low profile that can be recessed in a FRP shell with attachment screws from
> the rear of the flange.  The housing should contain a single 29 LED Array
> rated at 10,000 lumens  with a rated power of  91-140 lumens/W (109-71W).
> Mounting holes will be provided for an optional SS yoke style support
> bracket.
>
> Material: Hard anodized 6061-T6 or 7071-T6  TBD (I have a grey beard
> machinist friend that owns a machine shop.  He loves 7071-T6 as it is a
> dream to machine and stronger than 6061-T6.
>
> On Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Cost is critical. The electronics should be a small part of the cost. The
> housing might be the most expensive.
>
> Hope you guys are reading the specification.
>
> Ken
>
> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:
> personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *Clifford Redus
> via Personal_Submersibles
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2015 10:18 AM
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights
>
> Jon, thanks for setting up the forum.  I am assuming we can post files as
> well.
>
>  I agree low cost is important but having a functioning light is as well.
> OTS LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an option unless
> they can be potted.  To me the best way to keep the cost low, is to publish
> construction drawings of a 1-atm  DIY housing that a psubber could machine
> or have machined by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that could be
> easily fabricated using  one of the PCB online sites like  ExperessPCB
> www.expresspcb.com and DIY populate the board.  As a group, we design and
> build a prototype that I can test in my shop. If it works as designed, then
> we post to the psubs site a report, that includes the design drawings,
> circuit diagram, parts list and test results.
>
> Getting a consciences on the design spec is the first step.
>
> Cliff
>
> On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.
>
> One measure of a success for this project will be how many people actually
> build/use it.  If it costs more to manufacture than just purchasing
> something like
> http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd
> off the shelf then it's real world application by psubbers may be limited.
>
> Over-spec'ing the design above requirements for typical recreational
> operations (ie 10,000 psi capability) is likely going to drive up the
> cost.  Also, let's remember that "cheap", "low cost", and "good price" are
> relative terms for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic
> estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling is required.
>
> Jon
>
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