[PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Thu Jul 23 06:11:37 EDT 2015

A couple of safety notes that I have just read from a light operating manual are below.They are convincing me that a fairly bullet proof sealing system would be a good idea.Alan   After each deployment, carefully check to make surethe light is operational and has not flooded. If it getsflooded, upon surfacing, the light can become internally  pressurized, which may be potentially dangerous.Additionally, if the power remains on when the light haspartially flooded, it is possible for electrolytic generationof an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen gases.If a light appears flooded upon removal from the water,it should be treated as potentially dangerous. Point thelight away from persons and valuable equipment andmake sure that the power is disconnected. See theFlooded Light Repair procedure for more information.
Flooded Light RepairIf the light stops working while underwater, you shouldassume that it has been flooded. When working on apotentially flooded light, it is important to use appropriatepersonal protective equipment to include, at a minimum,eye and hand protection.1. Place the light face down on a table making surethat the connector side is facing up.2. Unscrew the End-Cap Retainer with a spannerwrench.3. Slowly depressurize the connector compartmentand remove the end-cap with the connectorattached to it.4. Without removing the circuit board, rinse thecompartment with clean fresh water.5. Bake the light in a warm oven at no more than100° C or 212° F for at least 30 minutes to bakeout any moisture that may be present.6. If it is determined that the flooding occurreddue to damage to the connector, please see theChanging the Connector section below.7. Once it is determined that the light is not or nolonger internally pressurized, and the floodingwas not due to the connector; it is recommendedthat the light be returned with the End-CapRetainer partly unscrewed as in step 2 above, toDeepSea Power & Light for evaluation and repairusing the RMA Procedure for Repair below.       From: Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 5:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

Thanks Dude,with regard to the cost; there are a number of lights on Deal Extremefor around $15-, that may have suitable housings. One I have looks like it will only require an O-ring grove as an upgrade. Keep the housing & throw the rest away. IP67 Waterproof 10W 700lm 6500K White Light LED Spotlight / Underwater Lamp - Silver

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They are generally threaded at the back & have something similar to a blue globecable gland in them. Just replace this gland with a blue globe if the thread iscompatible. Once we have the final led & driver dimentions, I will have a look.No reason why we couldn't do a few variants of housings using the same led & driver.Alan

     From: Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
 Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights

My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.

One measure of a success for this project will be how many people 
actually build/use it.  If it costs more to manufacture than just 
purchasing something like 
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd 
off the shelf then it's real world application by psubbers may be limited.

Over-spec'ing the design above requirements for typical recreational 
operations (ie 10,000 psi capability) is likely going to drive up the 
cost.  Also, let's remember that "cheap", "low cost", and "good price" 
are relative terms for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic 
estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling is required.

Jon

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