[PSUBS-MAILIST] Drawing of my 2-man sub
hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Sat Jan 31 08:43:04 EST 2015
Andre,
I have a sub with an acrylic cylinder for the CT and the visibility is fantastic,
Hank
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On Fri, 1/30/15, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Drawing of my 2-man sub
To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
Received: Friday, January 30, 2015, 10:27 PM
Hi
Andre,
Very nice drawing and
concept, I like the simplicity and it looks balanced. I
would have the following observations:
- Check that you can actually get
those hemispherical heads for a reasonable price.
Hemispherical heads are far less common than elliptical. I
was once shopping for endcaps and got the following quote:
"The elliptical is $300, the hemispherical is $300 plus
$4000 in tooling setup costs".
- Regarding the coning tower design
(K250 in this case) it depends what you want the sub for.
The problem with that tower is the low freeboard, which is
fine for lakes but insufficient for open water. You cannot
open a K250 hatch in the ocean in anything but flat calm
conditions. Also, visibility out of a K250 dome hatch is not
good, even though that might sound counter-intuitive. You
are looking through the side of a dome, which means poor
optics. The bow dome visibility will be wonderful, because
you're looking through the apex. Or, of course,
visibility of the surface will be good from the
coning tower, but one only uses that upon
surfacing.
- I would
not worry too much about the boat being top heavy. In
general, between low drop weights, low batteries, and high
MBTs these little boats are extremely stable. You should be
able to carry a significantly taller tower than that one
given the hull beneath it. I'm not saying you should
skip the stability calculations, I'm just saying I think
you will find that the calculations prove you can carry a
higher tower that will allow for flat viewports and increase
freeboard. Another option is to put a cylindrical viewport
on the K250 tower to bump it up. I haven't done that
myself, but it could be done.
Best,
Alec
On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at
11:42 AM, André Eriksen <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
wrote:
Hi
guys!
Finally I can
start building. Just rented a nice location outside town.
This is the drawing of the sub. I want to have 400meters
(1300ft) of max operating depth. The hull is 10mm
(3/8") S355J2 steel. The ABS hull calculator is giving
me 431,8m (1417ft) of depth, and 638,4m (2094ft) crush
depth. Still have som FEA to do. Have to learn to use a new
software since Autodesk Inventor don`t simulate buckling.
Any thoughts on the design?Do someone want to
confirm my calculations?Very excited to get
started!Sorry for the metric dimensions for you
who are not custom to them.
I had a hard time figuring out the
conning tower. I wanted it to go in one piece, but I want
all the freeboard I can get and not get it too top heavy.
Was thinking about going 20mm thick nozzle all the way up,
but thinking I might get in trouble welding in the hatch
seat ring. With 30mm I could do without welding in a seat
ring, but it would be too top heavy. So decided to go with
the Kittredge design, any thoughts on this?
Domes in top and front and saddle
tanks.
Emile:
If you still want to press domes for me, can you give me the
exact measurements I should have for the bow
ring?
-André
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