[PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm

Thu May 29 18:26:52 EDT 2014

Scott,
There are pictures under Gamma restoration and there is a picture of a small arm I built for my small yellow sub.
Hank--------------------------------------------
On Thu, 5/29/14, swaters via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm
 To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
 Received: Thursday, May 29, 2014, 6:22 PM

 Hank,Do
 you have any pictures of your manipulator
 arm?Thanks,Scott Waters

 Sent
 from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone 
 hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
 <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
 Alan,
 The arm is very smooth on Gamma except for the swing. 
 The reason it is smooth is the extreme low flow rate with
 1/8in lines.  The swing is jerky because the swing
 cylinder is to short making the swing to fast.  I
 presume in the water it will be a bit better due to water
 resistance, like an oar on a boat.  The valve bank does
 not need to be near the pilot, Gamma has the valve outside
 the hull.  
 Hank
 --------------------------------------------
 On Thu, 5/29/14, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles
 <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm
  To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion"
 <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
  Received: Thursday, May 29, 2014, 5:18 PM

  Hank,Firstly I'm just learning
  about this stuff.I
  came across these control valves that looked reasonably
  priced.Directional Hydraulic Control
  Valves | Hydraulic Control Valves | Hydraulics | Northern
  Tool + Equipment
  With the convertible pump idea you
  would save space around the pilot control area by having
  small electricswitches instead of large valves, but
  wouldn't you lose the ability to slow the movement
 down.
  It wouldjust be an on / off jerky
  movement.They do have reasonably
  priced solenoids on this site  with
  "soft shift" which I presume means a degree
  ofcontrol rather than
   full on / full
 off.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics+hydraulic-valves+power-solenoid
  For $139- per degree of movement plus
  the price of one power unit, (round $500-) you could have
  electric control.Power

 units-http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics+hydraulic-power-units
  Alan  Directional
  Hydraulic Control Valves | Hydraulic
  Control...Directional Hydraulic Control
  ValvesView
  on www.northerntool.comPreview
  by Yahoo

  From: Hugh Fulton via
  Personal_Submersibles
  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
   To: 'Personal
  Submersibles General Discussion'
  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014
  8:36 AM
   Subject: Re:
  [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm

  Hank,
  That seems like very good advice.  I am
  wanting to do a manipulator but need
  to get some idea of what
  lifting or forces are required.
  What are the pumps you have
  found to work best.  What pressure do they
  develop? I had
  no idea what a top pump was so googled it and came up
  with
  breast
  pumps!! I didn't want to make a tit of myself so
 chased
  down some
  more and found that they are for convertible cars.
  They look a bit on the
  large side diameter wise.  Any brand
  best?  Cheers,  Hugh 

  -----Original Message-----
  From:
  Personal_Submersibles
 [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org]
  On Behalf Of
  hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
  Sent: Friday, 30 May 2014
  12:21 a.m.
  To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
  Subject: Re:
  [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm

  Scott,
  No matter how you do it, a
  manipulator will cost some of money.  I have made
  many and the
  tendency seems to be, to try and make them strong to lift
  a
  lot. 
  Well first off, I think it was Vance that said it
  best.  A manipulator
  is for
   manipulating not lifting.  With that in mind,
 large
  components are
  not needed.  Simple air cylinders from ebay
  are  all that is needed.  A 2in
  bore and depending on manip
  design, 4in stroke, maybe as much as 6in stroke
  is all you
  need.  Keep the rod size small at 5/8, that reduces
 the
  back
  pressure.  I have said it before, I love
  convertible top pumps.  Consider
  using one pump per function
  again purchase from ebay for 125 bucks.  No need
  for valves, the
  pump simply runs in reverse to change direction of the
  piston. Keep the
  pumps inside the sub and it is real simple.  As for
 the
  arm
  itself,
  if have made them from cardboard first.  You
   can mock it up that way
  and find the best pin
  locations for the cylinders and ensure the 
  cylinders
  stroke properly without over centering. You can
  build the arm with square
  tubing, use 3 inch aluminum
  so the cylinders fit inside when the arm is
  folded up.  Forget about
  a wrist until you have lots of time to play around.
  Four functions
  will serve a psubber well and can be built for under
  1,000
  dollars. I can send you a convertible top pump to
  play with if you like.
  Hank
  --------------------------------------------
  On Wed, 5/28/14,
  swaters via Personal_Submersibles
  <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

   Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
  Manipulator arm
   To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
   Received: Wednesday, May 28,
  2014, 9:31 PM

  Hey guys. I am
   still working on the manipulator arm project for
  the K  boats. I am a
  little overwhelmed as to what
  direction to  head. I really don't know where
  to start because
  of my  lack of knolwedge. Does anyone have any
   pointers as
  to where  to start? I am thinking about using
  electric motors rather  than
  hydrolics just because of the
  amount of external  operating
  peices. Thanks,Scott  Waters

   Sent
   from my U.S.
  Cellular© Smartphone

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