[PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
Dan H. via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Wed Jun 18 12:39:22 EDT 2014
Scott,
Please don't take this in negative way, and understand that we have never meet. I don't know your skills, the skills of your wife, or your end expectations. I congratulate you on recognizing that you're not a good engineer, if in fact you aren't. Maybe you're even better then you think you are. I don't know.
Don't underestimate the planning and work that goes into in a sub. Building any sub is a big undertaking, much less one for more then a few hundred feet of depth. Most of all, don't look for cheap engineering. You most likely won't get what you don't pay for. If you're looking for cheap engineering help the BEST you're going to get is CHEAP engineering. That may be ok with a go cart, but not with a sub.
Unless you're confident enough in your own engineering skills to do your own design or even alter a pre-engineered design, you really should have a certified engineer do the work. Basically it means you're getting something the engineer is willing to stake his reputation on. That SHOULD be good enough to put your life in. You still may be playing with matches, but anything less, and your playing with fire.
It's a lot of work and thousands of man hours building a sub. There are plenty of other places to make mistakes in a build, and plenty other ways to get hurt in a sub. If you're going to build, don't start out hoping you're doing it safe. Either have it properly engineered or build a design that has been. That's why so many take the less expensive and safe way of building a K sub. The engineering has been properly done and it's stood the test of time. Granted, it's engineered to older standards, but even that's far better then cheap engineering.
Even refurbishing a sub isn't a small task if there are structural issues.
Just my thoughts on the matter,
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: swaters via Personal_Submersibles
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
For the K-250 that I was looking at buying I believe it would be cheaper to build new rather than restore. Katy was looking for a sub to restore that wouldn't be extremely expensive. If the right oprotunity comes up she'll do it, otherwise she'll build a go cart and help me with my next project of a deep diving sub.
Thanks,
Scott Waters
Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
Mark via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Scott,
What made you change your mind on the K-250 project? Are you looking at designing your own sub?
Thanks again for providing a quote for the rolled steel.
Regards,
Mark Widman
Director, GDSN & Data Quality
GS1 Global, USA
mark.widman at gs1.org
910-638-5229
Sent from iPhone.
On Jun 17, 2014, at 12:12 AM, swaters via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Huge,
I was just going off of what the blue prints said for a idea of what that would cost and several members on psubs asked for me to share the quote. I don't believe I will be doing the K-250 project anyway.
Thanks,
Scott Waters
Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Go with 3/8” thick it doesn’t buckle as much as ¼”
The guys who welded my 5/16” said that it would have been half the time with 3/8”. That is why ABS says minimum 3/8” I believe.
Best, Hugh
From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of swaters via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Tuesday, 17 June 2014 3:22 p.m.
To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Rolled steel
Hey guys,
I got a quote back from Arntzen on a K-250 hull.
The quote is to roll, tack seam, and reroll to round. 36"diameter and 48" long of 1/4" ASME 516 gr 70.
They will do it for $575 and a 2 week lead time.
Thanks,
Scott Waters
Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
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