[PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch/Hatch Ring Flatness Evaluation

[James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles]

I had both my hatch and tower machined flat before installation.  Even with
that there still seems to be a tiny gap.  I fiddled around with the hinge
mounting for ages, trying to eliminate the gap, but found like Alec says,
with the dogs tightened, it dissapears.  It doesnt leak.
Regards
James
On 27 April 2014 12:50, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> OK, I wasn't really sure.  I know this hatch/tower ring has historically
> functioned.  This hatch is pretty beefy in my opinion.  I have bigger fish
> to fry so I will move on for now.  I had the hatch on as I am evaluating
> how I can make it open from the exterior. I would like to do this by only
> having to create 2 penetrations.
>
> 
> 
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 8:52 PM, Private via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> This is normal. With Snoopy you can see light in places, even with the
>> o-ring installed. The light disappears just hand-tightening the dogs.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alec
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Apr 26, 2014, at 5:08 PM, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>> >
>> > All, I am evaluating my K-250 hard hatch/tower ring mating. This hard
>> hatch was custom made for this K-250 by the previous owner.
>> >
>> > When the hatch is closed (w/o-ring removed) and the interior of the sub
>> is brightly lit I notice I can see light between the hatch and hatch ring
>> in places. The "gaps" are not huge and I believe with the o-ring installed
>> no light would be seen.
>> >
>> > However I believe it tells me there are some flatness issues in this
>> interface. In a perfect world I should see no light.
>> >
>> > My questions are, what is a precise way to identify the "high points"
>> and is grinding the hatch surface vs. the tower ring the right surface to
>> modify?
>> >
>> > Steve
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