[PSUBS-MAILIST] Aluminum Welding Technique Question

Thu Apr 24 20:24:54 EDT 2014

James ,
I have spent thousands of hours welding aluminum and I agree with your
conclusions . The ability to fine tune the frequency and balance control
makes all the difference in the world . A big ball at the end of the
tungsten just doesn't conduct weld current very efficiently . Inverter type
welding machines designed for use on aluminum are terrific. I wouldn't go
back to an old transformer type with the add on hi frequency box for all
the money in the world. (  the stone age of aluminum welding ) .
Dan Lance

On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 3:13 PM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Did anyone get my response and attachment to this post about aluminium
> welding?  I was braced for a firestorm of criticism but nobody said
> anything.  Either everyone agrees, doesnt care or didnt get it....which is
> it?  :)
>
> Kind Regards
> James F
>
> On 23 April 2014 15:32, James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>> I was going to write my 2 pence worth (UK version) in reply to this, but
>> im just going to attach a sheet i wrote which covers all i was going to
>> say.  I know there are a lot of expert welders on the forum, so this is
>> just my personal take on it.  I can get good results most times.
>> Personally, i dislike the "balled electrode" thinking.  It will ball to a
>> certain extent of course, but I dont like it to become bigger than the
>> diameter of the electrode.  With correct frequency and as little cleaning
>> as you can get away with, i can keep the ball small and arc tight.  The
>> only thing not on this sheet is that torch angle is important.  As near to
>> straight up and down as possible, this prevents the rod turning into a
>> sausage before you get it into the pool.
>>
>> Just my 2p.
>> Kind Regards
>> James F
>>
>>  On 23 April 2014 01:01, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>>  Thanks Dan.  I did use 100% argon gas but my tungsten has a red band
>>> (2% thoriated).  I am also getting to know my machine settings so I'm sure
>>> they where off. Lots to learn!
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 7:28 PM, Daniel Lance via Personal_Submersibles
>>> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Steve,
>>>> Are you using pure tungsten ( green band on one end ) and argon
>>>> shielding gas ? . With the torch set on DC+ you will usually experience a
>>>> tungsten melt down. Just set the machine on AC and run a pass on some scrap
>>>> aluminum . You will get a balled end . Not to complicate things but a
>>>> balled end is not exactly the most preferred condition in the world. But
>>>> unless you have an inverter type machine with lots of parameter adjustments
>>>> you really don't have much choice.  Alec is correct the amperage setting
>>>> depends on the thickness of the material you are working with . If you are
>>>> trying to join a thin piece to a thick piece its ok to preheat the thick
>>>> piece first , just don't exceed 250 degrees F. Old oxidized aluminum is
>>>> very difficult to weld unless the crusty white scale is removed . It should
>>>> be nice and "shiny" before you start . And of course a little preheat never
>>>> hurt anybody . Aluminum is a near perfect material for marine use , it is
>>>> easy to cut , form , shape and weld . It can be painted , anodized or just
>>>> left in its original mill finish.
>>>> As far getting welding advice from Youtube , the only source I would
>>>> recommend is "Welding Tips and Tricks" . This guy is really, really good .
>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>> Dan Lance
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Steve McQueen via
>>>> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>     I attempted some Aluminum welding this weekend.  I needed to tack
>>>>> 2 together pieces of a trolling motor mount I modified for my stern
>>>>> thruster.
>>>>>
>>>>> I watched a video that said it is important to first first strike an
>>>>> arc on DC+ for a few seconds to create a "ball" on the tungsten tip prior
>>>>> to going back to the AC mode.
>>>>>
>>>>> It was unclear in the video if the arc was being struck on an Aluminum
>>>>> piece or the Steel welding table surface.  Does it matter?
>>>>>
>>>>> Also they said the amp range should be set to 55-75.  Seem OK?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Steve
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
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>>>
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>>
>
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