[PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems

[Brian V Ryder]

just wanted to chime in there is a synthetic mineral oil that is said
to work great but i use standard light mineral oil works as well and a
fraction of the cost all my old thrusters were compensated with a
spring loaded unit on the end of the motor but we still had weeps and
oil leaks but now we are using tecnadyne mag coupled thrusters and
have had no problems at all

i have done some research on mag coupled thrusters there is alot of
info out there and people building their own units


Brian


On 9/5/2013 8:27 PM, swaters wrote:
> So first failed test. I filled my oil compensating bladder and used
> marvel mystery oil. It ate away at the rubber of the bladder. I am
> useing rubber for landscapping pond liners. I think marvel mystery
> oil is a solvent. Should I use mineral oil or something? Thanks, 
> Scott Waters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone"Dan H."
> <jumachine at comcast.net> wrote:Scott
> 
> In your lathe,, turn and face a piece of stock about 1/2 inch long
> and a little under the small diameter of your lens. (a flat disk)
> Flip it around and drill a center hole in it with a center drill as
> you would in the end of a long shaft you want to turn in the lathe.
> (A hole to accept the lathe center)  Don't go all the way through.
> Take it out and cover the faced end with strips of double sided
> tape.
> 
> Mount another chunk of round stock, just a little smaller in
> diameter then the larger diameter of the viewport in the chuck of
> your lathe.  Face it true and cover it's face with double sided
> tape also.
> 
> Center up and stick on your lens blank then take the smaller piece
> you already prepared, hold it up against the tail stock center and
> crank it up against the other side of the lens blank.
> 
> With the lens taped to the drive plate and held in place with the
> force of the tail stock, you should be able to machine the taper
> you need.  Of course, take light cuts and keep a close eye on it.
> 
> Dan H. ----- Original Message ----- From: swaters at waters-ks.com To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013
> 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> Vance, I am in the process of installing veiwports. How do you
> chuck up the conical viewport in the lathe to make a mating surface
> for the "O" ring? Can't seem to figure out how to make it work on
> the lathe and have access to the edge that I need to cut. Thanks, 
> Scott Waters
> 
> -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
> K-350 blue print problems From: vbra676539 at aol.com Date: Wed, June
> 12, 2013 4:01 pm To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> 
> I haven't tried the Nekton style on my K-frames, but will. Gamma
> uses a cork/neoprene blended gasket material, glued to the frame
> with aircraft grade gasket cement, but dry on assembly between the
> gasket and acrylic. If the compression is sufficient on the
> K-style, it should work there, as well.
> 
> I'm not a big fan of gaskets or flat disc viewports in any case,
> but 12,000+ dives for the Nektons is a pretty good statement. They
> work. Do not use straight neoprene gaskets, and I suspect that
> unglued urethane gaskets fall into the same category. They are too
> soft and will extrude to the low pressure side.
> 
> Side note: I HATE using silicone sealant in this kind of
> application. It works fine, but makes maintenance impossible. If
> you're going to do it, then just go ahead and build some extra
> viewports. You'll need them for replacements the next time you
> paint.
> 
> To complete Dan's (hey, Dan, good to hear from you again) conical
> viewport--machine a matching notch in the viewport frame, and as
> Dan describes, take off the corner of the port  so that your o-ring
> sits in a square (in cross section) groove. Compression from your
> retaining ring will complete the form and it will not leak (ever).
> No sealant or glue is required for this design.
> 
> A well painted frame greased with oxygen compatible grease is what
> you want. The o-ring serves to keep the deep blue sea out on or
> near the surface, but the acrylic self-seals against the mating
> surface under pressure.
> 
> As to building the frustrum conical seats, Dan is also right. You
> can't get there from here without machining after welding. Perry
> build their conning towers as bolt on units, and that was the
> primary reason. A conning tower can be handled on regular floor
> sized machine tools. An entire submarine normally can not.
> 
> If I was building another K, it would have some very-Perryesque
> modifications--a bolt on conning tower with six ports in the
> cylinder being one of them.
> 
> Vance
> 
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Dan H. <jumachine at comcast.net> To:
> personal_submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> Sent: Wed,
> Jun 12, 2013 5:56 pm Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print
> problems
> 
> I'd prefer to have all conical viewports and I don't think you can
> properly gasket a conical viewport.  A rubber O-ring that seals at
> the edge where the lens meets the seat is as good as it gets on a
> conical viewport.  The shape of the cone and the pressure on the
> big side of the cone ensure you'll never have a gap to extrude the
> O-ring.  If it wasn't so difficult to machine the viewport seats
> conical after they are welded, I would have used all conical lenses
> and O-ring seals.  It's impossible to hold the seat true if you
> machine a cone first then weld.
> 
> Gaskets on the flat viewports may be good too.  If it works for
> Vance then it should work for you.
> 
> Dan H. ----- Original Message ----- From: hank pronk To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:22
> PM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> Dan, are you against gaskets like Vance has on the Necton. Hank 
> From: Dan H. <jumachine at comcast.net> To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013
> 3:04:27 PM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> I used sealant in the rest of the viewports.
> 
> I was concerned that the coefficient of expansion would be to great
> on the 15 inch viewport so that in really cold water there may be
> to big of a gap and possibly extrude the O-ring in along side the
> lens.  I know it could be a problem with the sealant also but I
> simply went with seemed to work for others on the all the rest of
> my viewports....   Glue them in with sealant!!!
> 
> Dan H. ----- Original Message ----- From: swaters To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:42
> PM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> Dan, Did you put o-rings around all your view ports or did you seal
> the 8 inch veiw ports with sealant? Thanks, Scott Waters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
> 
> "Dan H." <jumachine at comcast.net> wrote: I don't know.  There isn't
> a lot of room for sealant in a conical viewport.
> 
> I like the fact that if I were to be incapacitated in the sub, all
> someone would have to do to get access to me is remove the six
> screws on the lens holder and easily pop the lens out to get access
> to the interior of the sub when it's not glued in.
> 
> My hatch latches from inside only, as the K-350 plans show.
> 
> Dan H. ----- Original Message ----- From: swaters To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 2:22
> PM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> What about 3M marine poly sealant #4000? Would that work? Thanks, 
> Scott Waters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone
> 
> "Dan H." <jumachine at comcast.net> wrote: Machine the sharp edge off
> the top side of the viewport lens so it creates a triangular cross
> section groove when installed in the conical seat and install an
> O-ring before bolting down the lens retaining ring.
> 
> Do a 10 or 20 time size drawing of the            cross section
> groove area with any standard cross section O-ring of your choice.
> Draw in the lens edge to create a situation where you have about
> .020 inch squeeze on all three sides of the triangular gland.
> (seat, lens retainer and lens edge when the sharp part is machined
> off)  That's how to determine how much to machine the lens edge.
> Get the squeeze to .020 inch per side on the O-ring.  Try fan
> O-ring of .250 cross section or maybe a little less and see what
> you think.  When you get the O-ring cross section and groove pinned
> down, pick an O-ring of a diameter that will fit.  No sealant
> necessary.
> 
> Also you should grease the O-ring and            conical seat
> before instillation.
> 
> Dan H. ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Wallace To:
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 11:24
> PM Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems
> 
> 
> It was sikaflex all the way around on the 600.  The problem with it
> is that you really have to bang on the viewports to get them out
> and at least the way I removed them, I would only put back new
> ones.
> 
> 
> On 6/11/2013 11:16 PM, swaters wrote: Why did Kitteregde use a
> gasket and a "O" ring on the big veiwport and not on the small
> veiwports. Hank, why did useing the silicone suck? Was it hard to
> apply or did it not hold up well? Thanks, Scott Waters
> 
> 
> 
> 
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