[PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms

Wed Oct 30 11:31:43 EDT 2013

Can one drill out the puller thread and cut a new slightly larger one in
coarse thread?

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:37 AM, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>wrote:

> James,
> It's like the puller was made for it.  Be aware though, with the fine
> thread it is slow to unlatch.  A real coarse thread, would be faster.  My
> original idea was to use a scissor jack threaded rod and nut.
> Hank
>
>   *From:* James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 30, 2013 7:52:05 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms
> **
> Hank,
> Looks like a nice simple solution.  Thanks for sharing that one.  I've got
> loads of flywheel pullers and the like that could be adapted.
> Regards
> James**
> On 30 October 2013 12:29, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:**
>
>  James,
> The hatch picture is with new sub on the project page.
> Hank
>
>   *From:* "jimtoddpsub at aol.com" <jimtoddpsub at aol.com>
> *To:* personal_submersibles at psubs.org
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 30, 2013 6:13:10 AM
> ***Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms**
> **
>  Checklist item:  Proper tools onboard in the event a component of the
> hatch mechanism binds or breaks.
>  -----Original Message-----**From: James Frankland <
> jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>**To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>**Sent: Wed, Oct 30, 2013
> 6:51 am**Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms****
> slightly lower seat!****
> On 30 October 2013 11:40, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote:**
>
>   Speaking of this hatch issue, would all this extra hardware present a
> head butting problem? How to deal with that? A more dished profile, or a
> slightly taller conning tower? **
> **Joe****Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad
>  **
>   *From: *James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>; ***To: *Personal
> Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>; **
> *Subject: *Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms ***Sent: *Wed, Oct 30,
> 2013 10:06:59 AM **
>  **
> Hank,
> How does the mechanism work?  turning the wheel obviosly lifts the ends
> under the hatch lip.  Dont suppose you have a dwg?
> Regards
> James****
>  On 29 October 2013 18:15, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote:**
>
>   Jim,
> that is exactly what I did with my k350 hatch.  I didn't have tie rods yet
> so I put adjusting bolts in the dogs.  I intent to change to tie rods from
> go carts.  This is very easy to build.  The slide system is the easiest to
> fabricate though and less complicated.  Gamma has slides.
> Hank
> **
>    *From:* James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>***To:* Personal
> Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> **
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:20:14 AM***Subject:* Re:
> [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms**
> **
>   Hi Jim.  I reckon i took that picture!  unless you took one almost
> exactly the same!  Its the lanzarote sub i think, i remember sending it to
> someone, Brent i think.
>
>
> ****
>   On 29 October 2013 14:38, <jimtoddpsub at aol.com> wrote:**
>
>    On this hatch mechanism the dogs pivot instead of sliding.  The
> arms are threaded to adjust  the length turnbuckle style.
>
> [image: CIMG3887.JPG]
> For sliding dogs, beveling them where they contact the latch point allows
> them to progressively tighten as they move into place.  The latch points on
> the tower should either be replaceable or have replaceable wear plates.
> That also allows you to change the thickness of the wear plates in order
> to adjust the pressure of the hatch to the landing.
> -Jim
>   -----Original Message-----**From: James Frankland <
> jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>**To: Personal Submersibles General
> Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>**Sent: Tue, Oct 29, 2013
> 6:53 am**Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods****
>   anything like that would be ok by the looks of things.  That one is
> good because it only requires one through hull.****
>   On 29 October 2013 11:25, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote:**
>
>    James,
>
> 2400 series, look for drawings at bottom of page for that series. The cast
> hatches are of no value to us but the mechanisms I believe are.
>
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad
>  **
>    *From: *James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>; ***To: *Personal
> Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>; ***
> Subject: *Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods ***Sent: *Tue, Oct 29, 2013
> 11:15:49 AM **
>  **
>  I cant see the one you mean Joe, is there a product number?****
>   On 29 October 2013 10:54, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote:**
>
>     James,
>
> Ive given thought to the hatch in the past, take a look at freeman marine
> and look at the cam mechanism with dogs,
> http://www.freemanmarine.com/ProductsHatches.htm
>
> Could not a rotating shaft pass through the center to both sides via same
> thru-hull as side thrusters, with a wheel on both sides and a similar cam
> mechanism on the inside? Upward Port moved a bit forward then, and beef
> up the hinge for extra weight as you said.
>
>
> Joe
> **
>    *From:* James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>
> *To:* personal_submersibles at psubs.org; PSUBS Member Discussion Group <
> member-forum at psubs.org>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 29, 2013 5:55 AM
> *Subject:* [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods
>   **
> Jon\Joe sent a message yesterday i think regarding suggested K-350
> modifications.
>
> I would suggest these as critical.
>
> 1.  Hatch.  Opening from both sides.  Worst part of the design I think.
>
> 2.  Hatch bracket.  Could do with beefing up, it feels a bit flimsy.
> Probably could do with some traingular flanges welding on.
>
> 3.  Variable tank mounting.  The way the tank mounts is awkward and doesnt
> allow any adjustment.  Much easier and better would be flat horizontal
> brackets welded to the battery pods that join to corresponding flat
> brackets on the vbt.  Slotted holes on one of the planes would allow the
> tank to slide forward and back a little to allow that awkward vent to be
> fitted easily.  Also the tank could be just lifted up and on.  Very simple
> change.
>
> I think other than that, other modifications are depending on how much
> trouble you want to go to and cosmetics.
>
> For example,
>
> I changed the battery pod endcap seals.  I had a real pain trying to make
> them as per the plans.  The way i did them in the end with flanges was a
> lot easier.  But probably nothing wrong with the original design.
>
> Skids.  I didnt like the ones shown, they would just get all the paint
> knocked off.  Again, probably nothing wrong with the original design.
>
> I made all the flanges and protrutions from stainless.
>
> Electrical penetrators added to the battery pods to eliminate the ones
> shown on the plans.
>
> The 2 extra downward facing viewports i put in are really good.  You could
> do away with the ones at the back and put them there instead if you didnt
> want to make too many.
>
> The dome of course.
>
> Overpressure valve.
>
> loads of little modifications.
>
>
> I'm at work, and i better get on with some of it, instead of daydreaming
> about subs!
> Kind Regards
> James
> **
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