[PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms

Wed Oct 30 07:59:24 EDT 2013

James,
I have to admit I cheated. I used a 3 jaw puller for the mechanism that raises and lowers the center hub.  The center hub drops down when you turn the rod.  That in turn pushes the tie rods outward pushing the dogs to pivot and press under the hatch land.  You can use go cart tie rods to adjust the dog position.  Then you don't need adjusting bolts like I have.  I have no drawings but I did post a picture on my project page.

From: James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2013 4:06:59 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms

Hank,
How does the mechanism work?  turning the wheel obviosly lifts the ends under the hatch lip.  Dont suppose you have a dwg?
Regards
James

On 29 October 2013 18:15, hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> 
Jim,
>that is exactly what I did with my k350 hatch.  I didn't have tie rods yet so I put adjusting bolts in the dogs.  I intent to change to tie rods from go carts.  This is very easy to build.  The slide system is the easiest to fabricate though and less complicated.  Gamma has slides.
>Hank
>
>
>From: James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:20:14 AMSubject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hatch mechanisms
>Hi Jim.  I reckon i took that picture!  unless you took one almost exactly the same!  Its the lanzarote sub i think, i remember sending it to someone, Brent i think.
>
>
>
> 
>On 29 October 2013 14:38, <jimtoddpsub at aol.com> wrote: 
>On this hatch mechanism the dogs pivot instead of sliding.  The arms are threaded to adjust  the length turnbuckle style.
>>
>>For sliding dogs, beveling them where they contact the latch point allows them to progressively tighten as they move into place.  The latch points on the tower should either be replaceable or have replaceable wear plates.  That also allows you to change the thickness of the wear plates in order to adjust the pressure of the hatch to the landing.
>>-Jim
>>-----Original Message-----From: James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>Sent: Tue, Oct 29, 2013 6:53 amSubject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods 
>>anything like that would be ok by the looks of things.  That one is good because it only requires one through hull. 
>>On 29 October 2013 11:25, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote: 
>>James,
>>>
>>>2400 series, look for drawings at bottom of page for that series. The cast hatches are of no value to us but the mechanisms I believe are.
>>>
>>>
>>>Joe
>>>
>>>Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad 
>>>From: James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>; To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>; Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods Sent: Tue, Oct 29, 2013 11:15:49 AM 
>>>I cant see the one you mean Joe, is there a product number?
>>>On 29 October 2013 10:54, Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com> wrote: 
>>>James,
>>>> 
>>>>Ive given thought to the hatch in the past, take a look at freeman marine and look at the cam mechanism with dogs, http://www.freemanmarine.com/ProductsHatches.htm
>>>> 
>>>>Could not a rotating shaft pass through the center to both sides via same thru-hull as side thrusters, with a wheel on both sides and a similar cam mechanism on the inside? Upward Port moved a bit forward then, and beef up the hinge for extra weight as you said.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>Joe
>>>>From: James Frankland <jamesf at guernseysubmarine.com>
>>>>To: personal_submersibles at psubs.org; PSUBS Member Discussion Group <member-forum at psubs.org> 
>>>>Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2013 5:55 AM
>>>>Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Mods
>>>>
>>>>Jon\Joe sent a message yesterday i think regarding suggested K-350 modifications.
>>>>
>>>>I would suggest these as critical.
>>>>
>>>>1.  Hatch.  Opening from both sides.  Worst part of the design I think.
>>>>
>>>>2.  Hatch bracket.  Could do with beefing up, it feels a bit flimsy.  Probably could do with some traingular flanges welding on.
>>>>
>>>>3.  Variable tank mounting.  The way the tank mounts is awkward and doesnt allow any adjustment.  Much easier and better would be flat horizontal brackets welded to the battery pods that join to corresponding flat brackets on the vbt.  Slotted holes on one of the planes would allow the tank to slide forward and back a little to allow that awkward vent to be fitted easily.  Also the tank could be just lifted up and on.  Very simple change.
>>>>
>>>>I think other than that, other modifications are depending on how much trouble you want to go to and cosmetics.
>>>>
>>>>For example,
>>>>
>>>>I changed the battery pod endcap seals.  I had a real pain trying to make them as per the plans.  The way i did them in the end with flanges was a lot easier.  But probably nothing wrong with the original design.
>>>>
>>>>Skids.  I didnt like the ones shown, they would just get all the paint knocked off.  Again, probably nothing wrong with the original design.
>>>>
>>>>I made all the flanges and protrutions from stainless.
>>>>
>>>>Electrical penetrators added to the battery pods to eliminate the ones shown on the plans.
>>>>
>>>>The 2 extra downward facing viewports i put in are really good.  You could do away with the ones at the back and put them there instead if you didnt want to make too many.
>>>>
>>>>The dome of course.
>>>>
>>>>Overpressure valve.
>>>>
>>>>loads of little modifications.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>I'm at work, and i better get on with some of it, instead of daydreaming about subs!
>>>>Kind Regards
>>>>James_______________________________________________Personal_Submersibles mailing listPersonal_Submersibles at psubs.orghttp://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles
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>>> 
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