[PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

[hank pronk]

Joe, sorry 10.5in


From: Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 11:05:24 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

Hank,
 
The Minn Kota prop is really that big? Or is that Gamma?
 
Joe

From: hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

Joe,
My prop is 13.5 in dia, it is severy rears old so may have some material lost from rubbing etc.
Hank

From: Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 8:52:36 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

Ok gentlemen first round of quotes for a Marin 19A Nozzle only in ABS plastic (White) for a 6" prop and not accounting for prop clearance is $760. This is using FDM process.
 
Same nozzle in cast urethane,.. $ 3,700,.. what is cast urethane? Dont want it anyway!!!
 
I need to know the exact diameter of a Weedless wedge 2 prop for a 4" motor in order to get the quote exact.
 
Joe

From: hank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

Scott,
I use weights from a weight lifting set, the steel ones.  They could go outside on a peg so to speak.  The only problem is you want them at the bottom of the sub.  That means hauling the sub unless you want to get wet.  Maybe a slide system.    I thought the same thing to put the air outside, that would kill my sleek and slippery-ness.  :-) 
Hank

From: swaters <swaters at waters-ks.com>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 7:46:30 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

Hatch closure from both sides deffenetly a good one. I would say adjustable exterior weights. I hate the idea on chucking weights on the floor and then sitting on them. I am torn between that and moving the hp air tanks to the exterior to allow alot more room on the inside.
Thanks,
Scott Waters





Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphonehank pronk <hanker_20032000 at yahoo.ca> wrote: 
Joe,
Why don't you take a vote on what the best improvement would be for a k sub or alike.  My vote would be for a hatch closure from both sides.
Hank

From: Joe Perkel <josephperkel at yahoo.com>
To: "personal_submersibles at psubs.org" <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> 
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 5:41:42 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request

I just love the world in which we live! Look what I found while waiting to take my daughter to school,.. http://www.quickparts.com/QuickQuote.aspx

Isn't that just the coolest thing! The Star Trek synthesizer in the real world.

Joe

Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad 
From: Marc de Piolenc <piolenc at archivale.com>; To: <personal_submersibles at psubs.org>; Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Group Help Request Sent: Mon, Oct 28, 2013 10:46:58 AM 
Never thought much about doing it at small scale.

I suppose I would set up something like a wood lathe or a potter's wheel 
and work in some very soft material like low-density foam. Once I had 
the shape that I wanted, I suppose one could pour a mold around the 
master, melt or dissolve out the pattern and cast the final part in some 
suitable plastic, or even in aluminum if you were ambitious.

3D printing seems like the ultimate way to do it, though - the accuracy 
available is already better than what we would need, and if the inital 
results are not perfect, making changes and printing out another 
prototype is very quick.

Marc

On 10/28/2013 6:13 PM, Joe Perkel wrote:
> How can a home builder maintain that contour 360 Deg out of "X" material?
>
> Joe
>
> Sent from my overpriced
> iPhone
>
> On Oct 28, 2013, at 2:57 AM, Marc de Piolenc <piolenc at archivale.com> wrote:
>
>> Quick clarification: a properly contoured Kort nozzle, MARRIED TO A MATCHING PROPELLER, will increase static and low-speed thrust. Of course it won't increase power, since that comes from your motor. If you just put a shroud around your existing prop, you will be disappointed, and a shroud that doesn't do the job is overpriced unless it's free! Key ingredients for success:
>>
>> Prop matched to the shroud
>> Shroud matched to the speed and thrust requirement of the vehicle
>> Motor matched to the resulting prop
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> On 10/28/2013 8:33 AM, Jon Wallace wrote:
>>>
>>> What is the cost of having a true Kort nozzle machined by a CNC? I think
>>> a 30% improvement in thrust for $30 would be great but I suspect
>>> machining a Kort is going to equate to many hundreds of dollars, if not
>>> reaching beyond a thousand.  When I look at the Snoopy underwater videos
>>> it is difficult to imagine a kort nozzle really making any difference in
>>> the operational experience given that the motors are operating very
>>> slowly and pushing Snoopy around at about 2 knots (estimated).  The
>>> props are designed for power, but that's what we want underwater.  True,
>>> a kort nozzle would increase that power but what is the return on the
>>> cost?  In other words, on a road with a speed limit of 30mph and no
>>> passing zones it doesn't matter whether you have a 1.6 liter or 5.4
>>> liter engine under the hood does it?
>> --
>> Archivale catalog: http://www.archivale.com/catalog
>> Polymath weblog: http://www.archivale.com/weblog
>> Translations (ProZ profile): http://www.proz.com/profile/639380
>> Translations (BeWords profile): http://www.bewords.com/Marc-dePiolenc
>> Ducted fans: http://massflow.archivale.com/
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>
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